Navy Sateen and Aqua Silk Coat! // Large Standing Collar Drafting Process
Guess who missed a step?
Minute 8-ish: I draft the stand collar and then don't show how I tape it onto the bodice pattern...so, I line it up along the shoulder point!! Honestly. The collar pattern has the shoulder line marked, the line where the back neckline measurement ends and the front neckline measurement starts, and I lined that up with the shoulder of the side front pattern piece and then pivoted the front end of the collar until it was parallel to the dart leg of the side front piece. Annnd that probably makes no sense. Pause at 10:32 and reread this. I will be going over all of this again soon I promise!!
Thank you so much for your patience with me, my nonsense, and for your support. I'll be back for the monthly podcast soon ❤
Last year's holiday video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PrHDB9YfLg8
2020 holiday video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B_FAqKnp3Bw
Comments (32)
Ooh you’re coming to the UK? Can I come and meet some of your crazy awesome cyberpunk outfits- I mean, you irl? Hehe
What brings you to these blighted shores? Also dw just have fun I shan’t enforce my presence upon you
Hi, As always. No, thank you! You opened a world for me when I first found you. I didn't understand anything you did and it didn't matter at all. I still don't understand all that you do, but you taught me a lot. You got me to buy an old man of a Husqvarna Automatic, the green one, that is an icon in my part of the world. I have used it a little but alas my health doesn't allow me to do a great deal of sewing. It still sits on my kitchen table, though. You then got onto Patreon, and you absolutely have flourished since then. Thank you for letting me see you spread your wings and transform from a sewist or a seamstress (whichever term you prefer) to a fashion designer and a future home owner and interior design. You've showed us jewelry making and collections of vintage costume jewelry and how to style your garment with your collected pieces. And not to forget my personal favorite the hats. You've even shown us hat making. You got me confident enough to actually buying hat making material and I'm waiting to buy a block. Thank you. You did this. You are still doing this. I will never sew a coat and I don't understand your pattern drafting in this particular video, but that still doesn't matter at all. I'm just here to see you, and to thank you for opening up your world a little for me. Bianca, thank you. Yours, Ann
Thank you so much Ann ❤
You are such a skilled seamstress (I'm old so I don't know the genderless appropriate term) and watch with awe everytime. You rock, Bianca and this piece needs to be on full public display.
Thank you Thomas!
Check around the Saint Louis metro area— seriously if you’re looking for a second empire house that won’t break the bank. There are so many. And a few really amazing architectural salvage stores.
It's VOGUE #V9157! Check it out!
OMHL! (OH MY HOLY LORD!)You, my friend, should be in some huge, vibrant, "Bianca Espisito" line of fashionable! You have LITERALLY blown my mind! I've been working on a coat that had become my nemesis! With the square X the chest collared situation! Have tryed several times too get it rite, & now I think I can! I appreciate the longer, more in depth, more difficult drafting videos. Give me hope for the end product! Plz keep on doing what you do! 🤯🥳
Thank you Marcie! I'm glad to help in any way I can!
My bernina loving hart aces that you can’t get along with your bernina machine 😢 And I love to watch you figuring out how to make a pattern for difficult clothes.
I've been using it a bit for stretch things I promise! You'll see it come out of the corner for a few knit projects next year 😅✨
You look so stunningly beautiful!😍🤩
Thank you Fiona!
Such a beautiful piece...thank you for sharing... Also Have a very happy and safe holiday season...with much rest, cat cuddles, writing, sorting. and home hunting... best of wishes my friend from the South Western corner of Australia....🎄🎄🎄🎄🎄🎄🎄🎄🎄🎄🎄🎄🎄🎄🎄
Thank you Raelene!! Happy Holidays! 💚
I love the coat, wish I lived somewhere cold enough to justify making and having one! Thanks for all your hard work Bianca, and I hope you get some rest in the next few weeks.
Thank you Lorena! I honestly should make more warm things since I'm planning on moving someplace with even more epic winters 😅❄
Thanks for showing us the process for designing this coat! I love it!
Thank you Laurel!
I am absolutely in love with this coat, and the colors you chose for it are just stunning!! I do have a question regarding the pattern drafting: when you take out that small bit of fullness from the shoulder dart, does that define/set the neckline? Like if you made the vertex of that little triangle higher, would that result in a higher "neckline"? gosh you're right, this is very hard to explain!
I think so yes! Like where the triangle connects down to the princess line determines how "high", or close I suppose, the collar is to the neck. Bringing the line closer or further along the shoulder seam would change the width of the situation as well.
My house was built as a 1922 two bedroom bungalow. Our king canopy bed takes up the entire slightly larger bedroom, and while the step-in closet in that room is larger than those in most houses from the 20s, we use the back bedroom as a closet as well. There is a door between the dining room and the hallway that connects the two rooms and the main floor bath, so it's technically a really excessive "suite." Other clothing storage quirks include heavy duty ceiling mounted hanging bars in the basement laundry and storage areas for air drying and off season storage, which is nice - but also no coat closet near the front door, which I do not recommend.
Off season storage is indeed super useful!! I'll see how things work out, but I'd like a whole wall for glass display cases for hats...fun things like that 😂
I have a Featherweight machine from the early 1950s. We fight :( She was a gift from my mother-in-law (she bought her at the Fort Geezer thrift shop) and you are welcome to her! She’s barely been used; pretty much new old stock. All that is missing is the “regular “ foot. There might be a ruffler too, I’d have to check. Let me know when you want her and I’ll send her along. I’ve been looking for a good home for her :)
My goodness!! That would be amazing bit would be hard to ship 😅 Thank you in advance if she ends up with me!
I love seeing how you work things out. And that topstitching is beautiful!
Thank you Cheryl!
Usually when you say "if that makes any sense" I'm like Oh Yeah that makes sense....... That written explanation kinda make my brain wiggle inside my cranium though hahaha tooooooo early. Perfect though - you make it all look so easy and I know its not 😁
Thank you Michelle! Its always harder to explain than to do 😂
We live for your nonsense!! Seriously though, just literally shook with excitement to see a new video. Thank you Bianca, you really are the most hardworking talented badass on YouTube!!!
Thank you Amie!!
