Making a Dress and Trying A New 1940's Style

The book is « 5th édition Patternmaking for fashion design » by Helen Joseph Armstrong page 465 or in the index under « plotting pattern »

I have an example for what you are asking for but don’t know how to send a picture here

Bats are year around!! 🦇 ❤️

Good tip on the neckline slit! I followed a pattern that had me pivot on a single point at the base of the slit. I was very unhappy with the result. I think I’ll try again and square off the base of the slit.

A "Small Dart Fixes" video would be AMAZING! I have itty bitty darts and have been wondering about this. LOVE the variation on the long sleeves, I'm pretty sure I need to revisit my plans for the fabric I just got. Or, y'know, get more fabric. LOL.

I have been z-lib and there are many free pdf patterndrafting books on there they are great to look at!

I loved the dress, I loved the hairstyle, but the brooch was love at first sight. I need to visit your closet and "borrow" some things.

I have a vague recollection of this style being called the H line? Audrey Hepburn had several dresses with it and I think Dior was well known for it? Probably lots of other designers too! Ah - just checked and Dior introduced it in 1954. There are a number of videos on making them although the thumbnails show dresses way more relaxed in the waist than the Dior versions! Hope that might help on your searches.

Your HAIR!!!! *faints*

The amount of work you do never ceases to amaze me. I also loved how you styled this dress with the brooch and the hair and the make-up. I know of this Spanish 30s pattern drafting book floating around Pinterest and here's the entire book: https://issuu.com/jacquelineveliz/docs/5.-_metodo_teorico_practico_de_cort

This peplum is such a fun thought problem to figure out! I wonder if you start with a no waist seam sheath dress block and slashed across the waist, moved your darts, then taped your waist back together if that would work? I might have a go and test it out this week!

Oh my, I am (as usual) in love with your make up. It’s crazy gorgeous 😍 Gathering at the waist is not usually my thing as I was pretty sure it’s not for me - girl with big hips and smaller bust - but maybe I will try it with the dolman sleeves after all - it seems like they balance things quite nicely 🤔 Well, let me tell you - I would laugh out of the room anyone who would tell me on November 21st 2019 that in exactly two years I will be living in my own house (well, shared with two cats) waiting for the delivery of my kitchen furniture (IKEA in dark green, obviously). You really never know what will happen. If anything - I truly believe in you and your 2024 plans coming true! ❤️❤️❤️

As usual this was so interesting to watch you draft and create....the outcome is really beautiful and looks amazing! Thank you for sneaking in an extra project!

I love how this turned out. I think the peplum turned out cute too. I would just add more ease for the blouse version for myself but on you it looks really adorable as is. I have been meaning to ask you for your advice. I have a blob of fullness in the shoulder space above the bust on my all in one bodice and can’t seem to figure out the best way to get it to fit better without just adding a shoulder dart, which I don’t want to do. Any thoughts? I considered just not raising the shoulder but I’m not sure that will totally fix the problem. Anyway if you have suggestions or a name for this problem that will give me a place to search that would be great. Again I love this design. Definitely do one in a light color for a blouse.

I agree with natalie d comment that archive.org is a great place for free downloadable sewing books well books about anything really and I think the dropped waist look came out before the 1920s but I can't remember when sorry I could be more vague if you want lol. But anywho the dress looks great and your hair looks REALLY Great! Lol like I'm so jelly but seriously make time to write life is short we can wait unless you need the views I'm just saying 😘😁😎😍

I can imagine, but definitely not construct, the “peplum” version flowing into a circle skirt. The lines are great on you!

Cute hair!

Hi Bianca, beautiful dress that looks absolutely stunning on you!!! So flattering!!! I love it!!!

Your hair and makeup for the reveal is to die for. The whole look is fantastic!

If you have a link to a pattern for your "dream knitwear," I can have a look at it and see if it is something both within my skill level and available time. I would also need the measurements of how you would like the end garment to be. I prefer not following a pattern to the tee, but instead do the math to make it the size I want. And, just like you use modern techniques on your vintage/historic sowing, I use modern methods in my knitting. I knit in the round in stead of flat (so less seams) for instance.

https://archive.org/details/patternmakingbyf0000holl/page/158/mode/2up this is my go to drafting book for "dated" designs. I've used an overblouse pattern before and achieved a very nice smooth side seam line. I think a kimono sheath is also a good one to add to your arsenal. https://archive.org/details/basicpatternskil0000zamk/page/48/mode/2up this wonderfully cringey book is my second go-to for crazy details.

I am digging your Bride homage updo! It suits you 🖤

Hi Bianca, I'm 8 minutes in and thinking hard about the peplum problem. I think you might be making it a lot harder on yourself by using separate blocks that have a large amount of shaping in the waist. I think for a garment with no waist seam you have to redraft a dress block with a straight waist. Then, if you swing your bust dart into the neck at the start, and replace the waist dart with a smaller side seam, you can draft the peplum and such without altering the grain of the torso. That's how I'd approach it. The pattern would look stupid regardless, since it has no inner body seams. That's why I like to separate my all in one sleeve into two pieces when I'm making a long version. Ok back to watching!

As the big winter SAD settles in and the amount of energy I have for sewing or doing anything approaches 0, your videos start becoming sort of a necessity! Vicarious creativity. <3 What a pretty dress and fabric and hairdo! I reallt wish we had easier access to Mood overseas...

Ooooh! Looking forward to watching this later! 😍