A 1930's Dress Drafting Demo 🪡✨
Oof! Sorry this is so late!! I may have had a got-to-go-back-and-buy-that-settee emergency this week that threw me off course.
The long promised 1930's dress demo has arrived, and I aplogize for my general apathy towards this poor little dress. It didn't do anything to deserve this much abuse from me! I must do better about becoming equally jazzed about things I wouldn't wear myself, I just have to find a way into that zen place. I will also try to film some extra behind the scenes stuff over on the Sanctus set for you soon!
(and no that is not the settee in question in the thumbnail there, that is another /different/ settee, remarkably it was a two antique settee kinda day!)
Comments (58)
I'd rather see you do things you are excited about. No matter what you do, I learn something every time I watch you.
Thank you, for showing how you joined the bodice and skirt! I'm very shortwaisted with wide shoulders and not that much boobage on top of my wide ribcage; I don't like the look of a waist-seam on me. I really stumbled over how to join the two and wheter I got it right. Now I could watch you do it, so THANK you, again, for doing one outside your usual. Although, given the pointy style lines at the armpits and the pockets, you could have easily added a pointy collar, bat-shaped even for spooky season. Anyway, given the apron-look I think I'll give it a try this fall as I have just the right fabric in my stash and look for size adjustable things to wear now I'm on a longer weightloss journey for health reasons. I already used your video on the walkaway dress to turn my torso/princess seam block into my own version of that specific size-adjustable apron-dress and I got a lot of wear out of it this summer. THANK YOU for the Walkaway video!
have you considered pattern drafting things you like but could sell as one of a kind designer garments? That would give you the opportunity to make more without the need for it to have a place in your wardrobe.
For the pattern drafting vs you being excited about a project, I definitely think you should do what you’re excited about. However, I do have trouble making a bodice block with straight darts because I’m a guy and I find the straight darts always a bad fit, so if I just get past that hump I would love to see what you create and what you can come up with and with all the inspiration I get from you I can maybe start actually creating! You don’t necessarily have to make a video on this of course, but are there any recourses that can help me that you know of? Again, still would love to see the things you are interested in at the time but it kills me not being able to do the same
Alas unfortunately I have zero experience with either drafting menswear or fitting any body but mine, which is a super giant gap in my knowledge certainly. In fashion school you have to really specialize to get menswear and tailoring experience, or fitting-a-real-human experience of any kind, as they always have students making things for tiny standard mannequins and nothing else 😬 I hope maybe that has changed a little since my time, but I have no faith in the industry at large really. I’m certainly sorry I can’t be of more help! At least style lines are a bit more adaptable 😅
I thought you still looked stunning even though you didn't like it. I actually prefer it when you look at the pattern and say and show a more practical way of doing it. I would love if every now and then you'd show how to put together a design for the different body shapes. For example something that suits rectangled shape or a round shape ect. But I absolutely love your videos and am happy with you doing you 😀 xx
Thank you Zoeayn! I don't really know what shapes suit others best, I just know what I hate on myself 🤣 I will be doing a more generalized drafting "all the things" series on the channel soon-ish once I am in my new space though, I just have to find that new space first...
I agree, the rounded collar is not you. You sure did well, though, to camouflage the apron look of the dress. I like your usual style, it suits you. I did really like the description of this video, of how you apologized to the dress. That's what struck me, it's so endearing and shows your honesty. This makes me appreciate your passion projects even more, because we got to see the "other side." As a musician, I can relate to all of this, as some pieces I'm dying to learn and others not at all. I think you do well to keep a balance on your channel, and that is no small feat. The settee is really pretty! My Mom convinced me to get an old transistor radio the other day at the thrift store. That settee would be great for listening to the radio!
Thank you Penny! I have to fight my making vs teaching side and find a way to make it fun for both me and the viewer really 😬😅
I know you asked for advice on which we prefer: new pattern drafting or things you prefer.... But like some others have said, my favourite part of this video was the mash up of both! I would love to see you spend just a tiny bit of time doing a "how it is supposed to be" tutorial, but only on a miniature or something to save time and reduce pain. But I love the part where you decided to do it your way (much like the walkway dress too!). A kind of project runway-style challenge where you take elements of ideas from historical sewing your not that keen on, and show us how you Frankenstein it into something you love. I love the idea of encouraging others to take ideas from the past, but to make it their own, and to demonstrate how you can do that. Just a thought, but I think that sounds really fun 😊
Thank you Amie! The trouble is with most designs I would avoid, I would avoid them for multiple reasons, and wouldn't find anything to "save" from them that I would actually use for myself 😅 I am a super decisive person in all areas, including fashion, which means I have picky tastes 🤣 I just have to get a better plan/mindset going for demoing things I'd never use, versus diving into actual projects I'll wear and love.
You are awesome. I'm excited to see your work regardless if you are excited or not so...do what you love ❤️ win-win!
Thank you Thomas!
I like your style and like watching you make things you love, because I take big inspiration out of the things you make. I always tweak it to suit my personal style. And even if it is something I would not make for myself, I still learn a lot by watching you.
Thank you Tereza! ❤️
Haha, I laughed at how many times you complained about this project, but for the record, this style of dress actually looks stunning on you (even if it's not your personal taste). Also, really appreciated the tutorial, especially the part on joining the skirt to the top. I literally just had to do something similar where I had to make a top with a peplum, but without the waist seam (for cosplay accuracy), and I was stressing about that extra fabric in between the curved edges. Was a relief to see you basically ignore it (which is what I did too and thankfully it turned out great). Would love to see a tutorial specifically on eliminating the waist seam (you cringe, I know), or maybe how to draft a torso block?
Thank you! Yeah I will be doing a full torso block and double ended darts etc video for the channel as part of new series of drafting fundementals next year if all goes according to plan and I can get into a new house/sewing space soon-ish!
9 times out of 10, I'd prefer to watch you making things you love. I enjoyed watching you create this piece though ❤️.
Thank you Jessie!
Please make things you love. I'm here to support your creativity and I think that happens when the artist feels inspired. Looking forward to the closet clearout video, that's how I first found your channel :)
Thank you Caniko! I'm afarid I don't have a plan to film my clearing out, as it's mostly just a few things, not like last time 🤣 I do have a video planned for showing some highlights I've added to my vintage collection coming up though, as I figure we all like looking at pretty old stuff ❤️
I face the same conundrum in that if I'm not sure or exceptionally excited about aspects of a style and how it might look on me, I'm not inclined to make it. Even if I like the overall look. Maybe that's why I, slightly unfairly, want you to mock them up. 😅 As a curvy person myself, it would be easy for me do decide if I'm going to like something if I see it looks great on you. I'd love to see new sleeve drafting mockups as you've done in the past. Some specific sleeve designs I'd love to see are bishop sleeves/shirt sleeves that get sewn onto the all-in-one sleeve block. I'd also love to see variations of a set-in puff sleeve since I'm not a fan of the typical princess puff look on me, even though I want a milkmaid dress for myself, sooo. . .
Ha! As an hourglassy person myself I look at 50% of designs that exist and just give them a straight up "no" 🤣 I am waaaay too decisive to waver, I know what I like and hate wasting time on anything else really 😬😅
As I said about the dress with the floofy hip gathers you hated on you, I think you look as stunning in this as you do in anything. But if the style makes you uncomfortable, that is what it is, and you should wear whatever makes you feel best. I agree with you about the waist seams, though. If you wear a belt (or there's a belt built in), there's no reason not to have a seam because it will be covered anyway. I'd really like to see how you'd adapt all those designs people request that you wouldn't wear into something you would want to wear.
Thank you Calyanare! The trouble is, usually when I don't like a design, I don't like /anything/ about it 😅😂 By the time I was done "fixing" it into something I'd wear myself, nothing of the original would be left, so I might as well have started from scratch 🤣
Hi, Point 1) You might take the lady out of the 40's, but you can't take the 40's out of the lady. Or do I mean the other way around? I think the look you did here didn't make you look that much different than your regular way of sewing. You clearly have the silhouette of a 40's and 50's lady. I'm sure that's part of the reason you like that period of dress history to begin with. Point 2) Would I like you to make projects where you explore other times and ways of pattern drafting even though they won't be your favorites, or would I like you to keep doing "your" era but come up with new designs?... Yes please. Either or both are fine with me, but try to have fun whilst doing it. If it starts to be a chore and not a joy to make the videos, then the risk is that you won't keep doing them. I would love to have you around for my life time, and if I listen to one of my doctors, when we are teasing each other and having mock arguments, that would be at least another 30 years. I've known this doctor for for almost half my life I think, and we more or less grew up together as doctor and patient. When I told him that he needs to stick around then to be my doctor he refused. Talking about maybe wanting to retire at some point in the future, what's that about? I can't retire from my chronic conditions, and having to train another doctor just because he wants to retire before he's 90, what's fair about that? Other than that I've from today's video I've learned that I might not be ready for rayon challis just yet. I have no idea what the different rayons are and the properties where they differ, but if challis are to much for you I need to stay a long way away. On a completely different topic, have I told you about your latest inspiration in my kitchen. I bought a Monster, and it sits on my kitchen table for now. I bought a serger pre-owned. I've managed to re-thread it three or four times, without chucking it out the window, and now it makes an almost decent seam. Thank you for the inspiration. I don't think the hobby of sewing will take over my love for ballroom just yet, but I'm inspired to make some Arizona worthy dresses, before visiting my friend again. After Scandinavia, Phoenix, AZ is a bit on the linnen side of dresses. Warmest Regards, Ann
Thank you Ann! Nothing worst than having to re-thread the serger, such a tedious task!!
I'd like to see you do a torso block -- I'm very short waisted and waistbands at my natural (narrow) waist look awful, so I need a dropped waist, preferably with curves but I have little idea of how to do it.
I will do the torso block and double ended darts next year in a new drafting fundamentals series I promise!
I echo what others said, the 1930s dress looked great on you. However, if you aren’t feeling it, then you have to do what’s right for you. I loved seeing the second mock-up—the color blocking was cool. I always enjoy your tutorials, especially when recreating vintage styles from a photo. Waist seams and 1940s/1950s are my jam so I understand where you’re coming from. I’ll watch whatever you put out since you’ve taught me so much!
Thank you Jaime! I felt so top heavy and icky in this dress 😂 All waist seams all the time 😅
Your videos have been about 45-60% of how I learned to pattern draft, largely because we have extremely similar measurements and I was left at such a loss using Helen Joseph Armstrong. I still get a bit stuck with the effects of lots of dart fullness sometimes (as with the excess ovals when you combine bodice and skirt block). As a result, I'd love to see you make a torso block. It's really helpful to have what you DON'T do pointed out, because sometimes it's hard to tell if I'm being bad at drafting or I just have a lot of curve. I selfishly like your more creative videos, though, since what looks good on you is usually pretty close to what looks good on me 😅
Thank you Briar! The extra dart fullness proportionally to the "average" in drafting books can be super confusing for sure, and I often look at vintage drafting instructions like "oh sure, if I were a B cup maybe but here we are!!" 😅 The torso block is drafted in a super weird way, which I have shown in this video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zvs2hsTl_rY&t=5s but I will have a whole video on the process coming next year too!
I love the dress on you, I too am curvy and find a lot of the 30´s patterns suit me. I’m going to get on the torso block band wagon, I think it would be very helpful to branch out into other styles
Thank you Melody!
This was interesting to watch but it is a lot of work. There are some 30s, especially late 30s patterns I think us curvy ladies would still look good in. Some of my faves are the asymmetric late 30s ones with geometric shapes but you’ve done those! And the 30s midriff one I think actually looked beautiful on you. But that style and fabric I think does look rather approachable. Haha. I like to see you make things you like, and I would love to see your collections styled with whole outfits if possible. Maybe by decade. You style things amazingly but we haven’t seen all your hats in action.
Thank you Barbie! Once I can make my hats more easily accessible in my future closet room (that’s what guest rooms are for right?) I will be able to do more styling. I want to do live streams from my closet actually where I style items or outfits for imaginary occasions by request 😂✨
Ooh, croquis drawing! I would love that too.
I actually thought it looked good on you too, but I also hate sewing floopy fabric and really don't like wearing it either except in blouses. I will do it in silk, but with sheaths or something like that. I have a curvy body and a little leftover baby tummy and floop just doesn't suit me. Why don't you stick some finishing instructions on it and donate it? I did enjoy seeing how you would do it and think it might be a nice bodice for a 40's dress in a good wool or voile or lawn, flowy but more structured. I might use it that way.
Thanks Janet! Structured fabrics all the waaaay 🤩
Maybe you could use a half scale mannequin to demonstrate the patterning of the styles that don't appeal to you?
I don't have a half scale pattern at present so I'd have to make one. I certainly don't mind making the patterns in full size, it's just hard to get my monkey brain to do the sewing for something I'll never use 😅
Even though you didn’t like the dress, I thought it looked really good on you. Thanks for going outside of your usual style preferences! The tutorial was very educational, particularly the thing you did with “kicking out” the side dart on the center front panel.
Thanks Laurel!
I liked the 30's style dress, but I absolutely loved the colour blocked example, that's a top I'd actually wear (though maybe even more without the tucks in the front, not that you really see those but still. or maybe I'm just lazy.
Yeah the tucks are not needed! I have this complex where if a fiddly sewing thing won't even be seen once someone is 8 feet away, I don't want it 🤣 It's all about the silhouette and more major style lines with me, if I'm doing details it’s beadwork ✨
I thought that dress looked really good on you, but if it's not your era then I totally understand that it's hard to get excited about making something - especially in floopy fabric! As far as content, I like seeing your creations, your drafting of the patterns, and the construction of the garment. To be honest, historical methods of construction are interesting, but not for garments you might want to wear, so I favour seeing how you would approach a vintage style but using modern patterning and construction techniques. I've also thought that maybe an occasional series where you take a historical garment (I'd really like to make an Edwardian-style jacket from my block, but am a bit hopeless!), and pattern it from your block so that the features that make it 'historic' are reproduced, but in a wearable garment...if that makes sense! I like vintage, but not so much that said garment has to be one hundred percent accurate down to the techniques used. I'm happy with historically 'adjacent' 😀
Thank you Di! I have taken your request as an excuse to make a multilayered 1890's jacket from regular blocks for next month's video 😅❤️ I had just recieved a black moire fabric in the mail to try, and it needed giant Edwardian sleeves and "jet" beadwork. History bounding-ish drafting starting from the basic blocks instead of made for over corsetry is certainly something I can do more of!
I thought the dress was flattering on you. It was nice to see something different. I’d love to see the torso block. I’d like to see you do patterns you would not normally do and then do another version on how you would do it. I’d like to see a tutorial on how to draw the dress sketches. I’d like to see a cowl neck dress, no sleeves, no waist seam, A line skirt, in a sheer fabric and how to line it. I’d like to see a tutorial on how to buy fabric online. It’s getting harder and harder to buy fabric in person. I just don’t know what I’m looking at and how to trust what it’s going to be when I get it.
I do have a couple of videos about fabrics that might be useful here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HrJMJb3HDmU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sa-THnMxF30
I think a series where you make things like this that aren't your style, but show off new pattern drafting techniques, and then the next week, how YOU would draft it. You mentioned so many times "not how I would do it" and it would be fascinating to see you do it the way they intended, and juxtapose your way. Then a side by side comparison of how they look. Rather like Stephenie Canada does the vintage v. repro comparisons. Maybe then a 3rd video where you just go wild and make it YOUR style, not just your method. This would give us old way, new way, and the creative interpretation and optional edition. It was super interesting to see the difference between their way and your way, and I could stand to see more of it. The visial comparison helped me understand so much better than the words.
I'm afraid I would just never sustain the motivation required for that many iterations of a design I simple wasn't interested in personally 😅 I wish I were that noble! By the time I was done modifying things to my own taste, there would be zero resemblance to the initial design that gave me the ick 😂 Usually when I say "not how I would do it" what I mean is "I would never do this at all". I just have to find a better method for demoing designs I would never wear, it's a teaching versus making problem. Maker me has no interest, but "opps teaching is my job now" me must learn to make it work ❤️
I adore this fabric - and this dress looks beautiful on you!
Thank you!
You made this pattern fit you perfectly. As for using wrong side as a color block technique...not for me. Love watching you draft these patterns and learning how to do it! Thank you for sharing your talent.
Thank you Lillian!
Can't wait to watch! I absolutely love 1930s fashion, have loved it since I've been obsessed with old film as a little girl. It's not the easiest to pull off with my body type (I'm super short, only 5 feet, and I am an hourglass gal, but I love the fashion so much!) And I love me a cool old setee too! They are perfect for my short legs haha! Okay, not sure if your Sanctus looks were at all inspired by Paco Rabanne, but his designs always pop into my head when I see your Sanctus items. And I randomly came across The Way We Wore's video where she shows some of Paco's items up close. Definitely check it out if you've never seen it. I get lots of Sanctus vibes when I see his items : ) https://youtu.be/yWj74g9WJqc?si=hb1Qj-JYlhmxy5tV
Thank you Mel! You will /not/ enjoy how much I winge this whole video 🤣 My favorite Rabanne show was this recent one https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O_s07WuaX8o&t=207s
