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July 20, 2023

Trying to Copy Vogue Couturier Design 359; ca. 1947

Well, this design still needs a little more work! I think I have a new idea on how to make something similar but different which I hope I can try soon 🧐

Thank you for your patience! I promise there are some epic projects coming up soon ✨

Trying to Copy Vogue 359 (YouTube)

Comments (46)

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Melody McMath · August 21, 2023

I like version one. Perhaps even more spreading for more gathers?

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Teresa Bear · August 4, 2023

I’m looking forward to your upcoming new idea, but as it stands, I think version 1 is more flattering. V necks with big busts draw the eye down, and I get that optical illusion with version 1 but not at all with version 2. On version 2 my eye stops midway down which IMO emphasizes your bust even more. Version 2 might work better if the neckline was lower since it looks a good 1” higher than in Version 1. That said, as a big busty woman (for just a few more weeks) I’ve never felt comfortable with bustline gathers, so it may not be something that will ever feel comfortable. It is such a cute design, however! Thanks for showing it. As far as the skirt is concerned, the design on the envelope is cute, but I get the hesitation with hip gathers. Seems like the star of this show is the bodice and a simple pencil skirt would work fine.

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Susan W · August 2, 2023

Much prefer the first even though it’s tight. The second one still emphasizes the bust imo but it visually lowers it which isn’t ideal. Also I think floofier fabric might help the comfort level plus maybe addin a teensy but of ease. As a F cup this would be a very tricky style for me to wear so I feel your discomfort.

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Liesbeth Verhaeghe · July 28, 2023

I would combine de neckline of the first one with the rest of the pattern from the second one. I would use a pencil skirt or a skirt with a split in the back seam so the skirt can be more narrow at the bottom, a tulip shaped skirt that flairs out at the bottom would work nicely aswell. Thank you for making these video 🙏❤️

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Roller Blaze · July 28, 2023

I thought the first version was wonderful. I understand the self consciousness but it really doesn’t read as too “bust huggy “ as a person looking at you. If that helps.

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Koko_the_unknown · July 28, 2023

Hello, I was wondering, you know how some vintage patterns have the darts end above the apex? Would it be possible to make this into a princessline using a higher apex block or something along those lines to try keep that 3" consistency and also improving your comfort level?

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The Closet Historian · July 29, 2023

I'm not sure what you mean about darts ending above the apex I'm afraid! All darts should radiate to/from the apex for proper fit. This design does basically become a princess seam in the second version once the style line crosses over the apex ✨

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Rhonda O'Dea · July 28, 2023

Am wondering if you made repeat mockups of both versions in a rayon rather than the muslin. It might require the drape of the rayon to help decide which is the preferred version. Version 1 tends to highlight the bust and version 2 isn’t working in the muslin. 💚

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FiberTerian · July 27, 2023

I like the look of version 1 the best. Possible changes that could be made, raise the center front point as in V2, also change the point where the style line meets the sleeve as in V2. Perhaps adding in some additional ease would help you feel more confident. I could see this being done in two fabrics with a print in the center panel and a darker solid fabric for the side panels. That could be interesting. Thanks for a great video!

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Catherine Rowley-Williams · July 27, 2023

Version 1: better for someone like me with an A cup, but I agree the style lines are also nicer on version 1. (I was also recently at the optician, and yes so often it's ummmmm when trying to work out which is better, which usually means they're really closing in on the prescription).

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Elizabeth Bishop · July 26, 2023

I personally would like V1 on me better. HOWEVER, I don't think this is an instance where you need to push your own boundaries in terms of being uncomfortable with how revealing/form-fitting a garment is. Your body is your business, and how much you share with the world should absolutely be up to you. There are some styles of clothing that I like aesthetically but that don't work for my body and how I like clothes to fit, and that's okay. If you decide to make it into a dress I do think it would be gorgeous. I also agree with the other comment about maybe being able to open up the neckline in V2 to keep the proportions a little more similar to the design sketch, but that would again depend on your comfort level.

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Karen Lawler · July 26, 2023

Version 1! I think the narrowness of the centre bodice works really well on that one. I wonder if it might be a bit more comfortable to wear in a darker fabric? Perhaps even the centre front in a contrasting fabric ( so maybe green...and then the side front in black...) to de-emphasise it further?

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Lilit Penrod · July 25, 2023

I like version 2! But I do think the center bodice would look more proportional with a lower neckline, to keep it slimmer like in version 1.

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Sara Chitwood · July 24, 2023

Team version 1!

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Ann Lidslot · July 23, 2023

Hi, I can't decide which I think would be the better choice. I am pretty hopeless about seeing how anything might turn out before they are done. So striking out on that, I find myself pondering a third scenario, (as per my wandering mind). How would door #1 and door #2 look as a swimsuits? Or maybe even a old-fashioned bikinis? Of course that would have to be in one of your fabulous stretch fabrics. Or could one make one in a regular woven and make more of a playsuit of it? You might have noticed a bit of distraction on my part. We are traveling to see the grandchild tomorrow. He is now all of two years old, and with a pair of those blow up arm thingies he jumps into the pool at the deep end with abandon, and he loves it when all the grown ups are playing with him in the water. I haven't bought myself a new swim suit in 15 ish years. Since we're up here at 65 degrees north, it's an indoor pool of course. 65 ℉ is not warm enough for me to even think about going swimming outside. I love the fabric in your blouse. Have we seen that one before and I've pretty much missed it, or is it an upcoming project? I really love the opulent gold on you. Yours, Ann

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Mim73 · July 23, 2023

Team first version 😍

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Aleesa Pixel Tana · July 23, 2023

I think the style lines on A look better because they are more concave, drawing the eye toward the centerline which is slimming, versus the convex curve of B that draws the eye down and outward. However I think I would maybe add a tiny bit of horizontal ease into the gathered section, but lining it a nongathered structural layer to maintain the tension of the center panel.I think I remember seeing a dress from the 80s once that was a very similar style line and gathered look out if a shiny knit.

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DG · July 23, 2023

I really like them both on you, and think the first one looks lovely. I wonder if it would be less self consious making in something dark? I think it would look great in any number of dark greens or purples.

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LT Ellis · July 22, 2023

I think there's a compromise needed between v1 and v2. If you stop the video at 19:51, you can easily compare them. The sweetheart neckline is deeper and more open on v1, which I prefer and think would work better on v2. It would narrow the smooth part of the bodice, which seems closer to the original pattern. As a large busted woman, myself, I completely understand your feelings about v1. I also think that v2 just has less emphasis on the bust which is also closer to the original. It's just about fitting to a very different body shape than the narrow, long drawing of the original design. Excellent work on creating both patterns!

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Yvonne kolstad · July 22, 2023

The first one looks better, but your comfort is super important as you would be the one wearing it!

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Laurel Nolen · July 21, 2023

Thanks again for another great tutorial! I prefer the shape of the V in Version 1. The depth to which the neckline is cut is also nicer, to my mind. What if you slashed & spread the side bodice pieces so that there were gathers everywhere? I think having them only at bust level pulls the eye there, which might be part of your discomfort/dissatisfaction.

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Julie Tokumaru · July 21, 2023

For the skirt, I think you should follow the pattern example. Sometimes the extra attention to details on the parts that you think are too big make them seem smaller. Those swag skirts you have made were very slimming. As long as you don't make the gathers too full and you use a thin drapy rayon, I think it would look great.

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Julie Tokumaru · July 21, 2023

I think Sarah has the best plan. 1.5 The first one is better looking. I do understand about your feeling vunerable though. I find that feeling will go away as you wear it more. Weather that is a good thing or not, I really don't know.

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Sarah · July 21, 2023

Hm... It's hard to pick between 1 and 2 - I do like the proportions more on the first one--though I wonder if part of it is the neckline? If 2 had a deeper/wider neckline the proportions might be more balanced. Maybe split the difference? An option 1.5 that is a thinner yoke, and just slightly off the apex, but not so much as version 1?

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VewDis · July 21, 2023

I like how the first one fits. The second one seems too wide in the chest area. But that just me, I like fits to my bust, anything bigger makes my bust look bigger. Might look good with just an A-line skirt. 🤷‍♀️ Whatever you choose will be amazing anyway❣️

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Mary · July 21, 2023

I definitely understand what you mean about being uncomfortable with the way the gathering wraps in the first one but I think they both look nice on you! If I had to choose though I’d go with the second one with the first ones neckline.

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Robin Amstutz · July 21, 2023

I like the first one better but they are both amazing.

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Kera Sherrill · July 21, 2023

I think v2 looks better on you but needs some of the elements of v1... Basically I agreed with what you said lol keep at it, I think you're on the right track and it's going to be amazing when you are done working your magic ❣️

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Lorraine Clinch · July 21, 2023

Hi Bianca and thanks for another great tutorial. I agree with a few other comments, I think v2 with a deeper neckline as per v1 would work well, the fit of v2 over the bust looks great and the deeper neckline may make you feel like it is a tad more balanced perhaps? Take care and have fun. Xx

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Wendy Ratcliffe · July 21, 2023

I love both, the first one is my pick, the style lines are beautiful, I understand why you feel “exposed” but it really does look lovely. All that being said you have to feel comfortable in it.

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Taliesin · July 21, 2023

If it were me, I'd have the style line start and end where it did in v2, but have it not go through the apex like in v1!

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Penny Johnson · July 21, 2023

I like the shape of the V more in the first one. I think it would look nice in a dark solid colour.

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Laura · July 21, 2023

I’m wondering if the significant shoulder pads would changed the look of the style lines at all? Or perhaps adding a small amount of ease at the side seams on v1? Or perhaps concentrating the gathers a bit more to the top of the style line to create more of a downward line with the gathers rather than across? I do like the style lines on V1 more but I am a person with a smaller bust and thus am not qualified to tell you about relative silliness. Excited to see the next iteration!

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Rachel Kubitz · July 21, 2023

I think I like #1 best, even as an F cup myself - I'd have to try it but it seems like an opaque and especially textured/printed fabric would make it a lot less boob-forward. I may try this with one of my stash rayon florals soon!

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Cheryl Rosbak · July 21, 2023

I get what you mean about the first one; this 30G would be uncomfortable in it too. The narrowness of the yoke is more delicate but I think the second one flatters you more.

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Aunt Heidi · July 21, 2023

I think V2 has a cleaner look to it. Like Ulla says in The Producers, if you got it, flaunt it!

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Marcie Nelson · July 21, 2023

# 2

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Debra S. Apostol · July 21, 2023

Personally (and I am ALSO a VERY large busted gal so I DO understand your ‘concerns’ regarding the way it may SEEM to draw attention to that area) but I DO like both the deepness of the sweetheart neckline as well as the narrower bodice pieces in style/version #1/A better, and while I don’t agree with her version (😉) I think c t has a good point … a print fabric would probably also do a lot to make a big difference in how the bodice would look on.

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c t · July 21, 2023

I prefer v2 and think a print fabric would make a big difference.

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TeeFo · July 21, 2023

What a pleasurable challenge! I love getting to watch your brain unravel these patterns; thank you for sharing with us. Unhelpfully, I cannot weigh in version one vs version two, bc they both look wonderful. Sidebar: you've inspired me to tackle making bodice blocks...on version four thus far, and getting there. (I've watched far too many of your videos, though, because I can hear your voice as I move darts!) Sidebar to the sidebar: I can't stop singing "you take a dart from the middle, and you put it on top" to the Jenga jingle.

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The Closet Historian · July 29, 2023

I hope the block making is going well! Stick with it and you'll be good to go in no time!

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Kenzie Anne · July 21, 2023

This is one of those styles that really should be on a real person. The sketches just aren't realistic 😕 I like the neckline of V1, but the bust fullness isn't right. V2 the fullness looks more balanced. So combine V1 neckline and V2 seams 👍

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Kirsten Halvorsen · July 21, 2023

I love the second version - I'm curious about how you'd feel if you went for the deeper sweetheart V like on the first version?

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The Closet Historian · July 29, 2023

The trouble is, with the styles of bra's I wear I can only go so low, since they are rather "high coverage" 😂

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Eleanor Schille-Hudson · July 21, 2023

I love the first version on you! (But of course, do what makes you comfortable) I think those style lines are so pretty. Even if you end up not loving that skirt, I would personally love to see you pattern draft it. There is an Alexander McQueen skirt with the same style lines that I have been thinking about trying to draft (https://preview.redd.it/57rtzirp1iz71.png?width=1650&format=png&auto=webp&s=f12cbb36f48cb4eac854121ed43e8d763d9228e9) and I would love your guidance!!

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CompassRoseEOL · July 20, 2023

Ok this is really exciting! What a fun pattern shape!