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May 23, 2020

Making a Gathered Midriff Late 1930's/Early 1940's Style Dress

A style of dress I wouldn't normally make, in a fabric that's slippy to work with, while I'm already tiered?!? Let's do it! 

Luckily it all came together in the end and I'll need a garden party or afternoon tea to wear this dress to someday.

What style's would you like to learn to draft? Leave me your desires in the comments <3

Making a Gathered Midriff Late 1930's/Early 1940's Style Dress (YouTube)

Comments (57)

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Susan Page · January 19, 2022

I have been wanting a dress like this for a while. Had tried to workout how to modify the pattern, I was mostly right but it's good to see it done properly. This will probably be a summer project for me. Thank you.

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Kathy Thielman · September 8, 2021

Thank you so much for explaining how to do this kind of dress! As a plus sized person, I really like this style because it helps nip in my waist and show off my curves. I don't feel it comes across as matronly. Question: what sort of fabrics would you recommend for this pattern? I have a lovely cotton twill I want to use but I'm afraid it will be too stiff...

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Paula Percsi · June 28, 2021

Thanks a lot, girls 🌷

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Paula Percsi · June 28, 2021

I have a question, but I don't need an answer right now, I am going on vacation and won't be beginning with this dress only after that. For some context: I am a pear shape and have to accommodate a little more around the hips, so this is perfect for me, since it has the focal point on the upper half of the body. My question: if I would make an A-line skirt, could I be able to make an empire waist without the princess seams and without the waist seam? In my head this could be, but how will it look like in the back? 🤔

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Laia Garcia Sanchez · May 18, 2021

This is super cute, I could basically just wear this dress in different colors and with long or short sleeves.

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The Closet Historian · May 20, 2021

Thank you Laia!

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Jennifer Collins · April 12, 2021

Love, love, love the dress. It looks great on you. A black hat will tone down and finish the whole look off beautifully!

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The Closet Historian · May 20, 2021

Thank you Jennifer!

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Elina Salonen · January 16, 2021

Gorgeous dress, looks amazing on you! I once asked you if you could do a tutorial on this type of dress, so I'm really grateful that you did!

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The Closet Historian · January 18, 2021

Thank you Elina!

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Beatrice Nowell · June 23, 2020

The dress looks lovely on you. The neckline came out much nicer than I expected. It's actually a feature. I'm not sure why you don't care for this style on your body because it is very flattering in my opinion. Maybe the garments you've previously tried in this styled were purchased rather than created by you. In any case, Excellent!

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The Closet Historian · June 29, 2020

Thank you Beatrice!

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Tracee Pratt · June 12, 2020

Dress looks great on you, it has enough dark background and the red/orange flowers do not look pastel, (at least through the video), you are too hard on yourself.

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The Closet Historian · June 14, 2020

Thank you Tracee!

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Wioletta · June 2, 2020

first of all you look stunning in that dress and the colour is great on you, secondly i have to thank you for teaching me some of your amazing lazy ways, darts and stuff, I've been sewing so much lately because of you, finally made blocks for me and work with them, plus i like to put your videos on in the background when sewing, it kinda motivates me i guess, and thirdly i was eyeing dresses with that midriff for some time now, even tried figure out how to but looked meh, and look at that :D thank you

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The Closet Historian · June 7, 2020

Thank you! I'm glad my lazy short cut ways are helpful ;) I'm happy I can keep you company while sewing!

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Akinat · May 27, 2020

Thank you so much for doing thid video! I am so excited about this style! I think it looks great on you. Nevertheless I understand your feelings on the pastel color. I am a “dark autumn” type so I tend to avoid pastels as well. But who cares, wear what you like! One question: if you want to make this style, can you also add that waist yoke piece onto the skirt so you avoid having two waist seams?

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The Closet Historian · May 28, 2020

Thank you! You can put the midriff and top of skirt pieces together for sure, that is to say, I know I've seen it and am sure it's possible, but I have never tried myself before. I always wear withing with a belt that covers the waist seam anyway so I never bother ha!

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Katie Barber · May 27, 2020

Slashing and spreading is magical. I know it's math, but it blows my mind every time and I love it.

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The Closet Historian · May 28, 2020

I totally agree!

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Kimberly Costa · May 26, 2020

The dress looks so lovely and feminine on you. I love the coloring being close to your skin tone. Well done my dear!

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The Closet Historian · May 28, 2020

Thank you Kimberley!

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Johanne Turner · May 26, 2020

I like the idea of beach pyjamas too, especially with Summer coming. I also wondered how to make a pattern for a sort of asymmetric top and skirt. I have seen patterns that I like, Simplicity 2974, Advance 5677 and Advance 5563, that I could combo mix and match, but wasn't sure how to make that rolled collar. Thanks for all your videos, they've kept me totally motivated, even though at the moment I've only got old bed sheets to practice on!

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The Closet Historian · May 28, 2020

I sure need lots of collar practice myself, they tend to trip me up for sure!

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Sarah O'Toole · May 25, 2020

I really want a simple white cotton lace summer dress. Another I want to draft is a 1940s Kate Laure Paris dress I saw on Facebook. It's a simple dress with an A- line bottom, but the right side has a slit that contains a pleated section. Really cool dress.

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Violette Plague · May 25, 2020

I think this style really flattering on. You make me believe I couldn’t one day make a block bodice that fits right. I have the opposite problem as you and a man a member of the itty bitty titty committee.

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The Closet Historian · May 28, 2020

Thank you Violette!

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Miss M Vintage · May 25, 2020

It’s so beautiful! The fabric is really sweet and suits you. Yay for pretty spring things! It’s about to be winter here in Australia, so I fumigant go back and Re watch the bladerunner lookbook... 😊 stay safe!

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The Closet Historian · May 28, 2020

Thank you Emma! Yes I was sewing with wool for that lookbook and it is already so warm here for summer that I was thinking about next fall already ;)

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Lynne (fanfickchick) · May 24, 2020

It's a really lovely dress. The colour looks great and the style does suit you,even if you don't like it. Having a big bust can be a real pain at times! All the best.

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The Closet Historian · May 28, 2020

Thank you Lynne!

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Knitbelove · May 24, 2020

Bianca this is SO lovely!! Pastels aren't usually my cup of tea either but i think the really fine fabric and the print make it work f for you. I'm planning to do a similar style of dress in a rayon at some point so it was really nice to see it on a body type that's similar to mine!cup

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The Closet Historian · May 28, 2020

Thank you!

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Tina Johnston · May 24, 2020

I just have one question: When you were sewing the waist yoke facing on, why did you skip over the side seams? I can’t figure out a structural reason why it couldn’t be sewed on continuously.

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Tina Johnston · May 25, 2020

Ok, I think I figured it out. It’s because the seam allowance of the seam you’re sewing the facing to is already sewn down. This is why I love watching your videos with all of the details and explanations. I usually learn a lot of tricks I didn’t know, and I need to figure out textile geometry so that I can follow what you’re doing.

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Tina Johnston · May 24, 2020

I think this dress looks really good on you. You can definitely pull off pastels if you feel so inclined. Thank you for making this style. I love the 1930s, and I have plans for a sort-of similar blouse in the future (the blouses that have lots of drama on top in the bust and shoulders, then are smooth from under the bust to pretty low on the hips, and often have a matching belt at the waist). I learned some important things from this video.

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The Closet Historian · May 28, 2020

Thank you Tina!

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Alix McCulloch · May 24, 2020

You look beautiful in both that fabric and dress shape. I can see how this style could look ageing and a bit frumpy, but I think that all has to do with the choice of fabric and the styling. As a person with big boobs and a short waist I like this style on me as it helps give some length to my torso. I'd be interested to know what underwear you have on under this as your lines are so smooth, nary a bump or wrinkle! Great vid, thanks so much.

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The Closet Historian · May 28, 2020

Thank you Alix! I've got a Bali flower bra on and assets by spanx shorts/shaper thing on for smoothing ( https://bit.ly/2zBFpxT ) and a vintage nylon slip ;)

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Lynn Hamilton · May 24, 2020

Btw what kind of fastening did you use? Was it a zip? Any tips for putting in a zip/fasteners on really slinky, lightweight material? Thank you. And vintage beach pjs or loungewear sounds great.

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The Closet Historian · May 28, 2020

I put a center back zipper in this one, and usually to stabilize I would layer a length of rayon seam binding or lightweight interfacing along the zipper stitching inside as well, but I actually skipped it for this dress as I don't think I'll get to wear it too often so it's not likely to get a ton of stress :)

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Lynn Hamilton · May 24, 2020

This is hands down my favourite dress style. It looks stunning on you. You have the perfect figure to wear this type of dress. Va va voom! I like the style of the material but I would not be keen on the colours for me as I am very pale skinned. I think that it does suit you but I agree that it needs strong accessories, jacket, etc to make it pop. Thank you so much for the tips as slippery material is crazy hard to control!

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The Closet Historian · May 28, 2020

Thank you Lynne! Deep breaths and patience are required with slippy fabrics like this one for sure ha ;)

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Susanne Mallmann · May 24, 2020

This is looking great on you and suits your skin tone actually very well. I hope the new laptop helps you to create even more novels. I am happy to help such a creative person as you are.

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The Closet Historian · May 28, 2020

Thank you Susanne! Hopefully many more novels will be flying from the keys soon <3

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Raelene Byrnes · May 24, 2020

Bianca this is a stunning frock...and beyond flattering with the empire waist...the colour is beautiful and spring glamour upon you...very vavoom spring and Marilynesk... Enjoy your new tool...write merrily and thank you for your amazing work that you have been sharing with us...you have made my time at home more gentle and inspired by your creativity...take care and stay wonderful 🌺🌺🌺

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The Closet Historian · May 28, 2020

Thank you so much Raelene! <3

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Rhonda O'Dea · May 24, 2020

Thank you so much for sharing this adventure with us. The dress looks amazing on you and yes, you definitely can wear those colours. I learn so much from your videos!! Stay safe. Warm regards from Down Under <3

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The Closet Historian · May 28, 2020

Thank you Rhonda! I hope you've had a lovely autumn so far down there <3

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Caitlin McGuire · May 24, 2020

This looks so good on you! I like both the cut and color palette; I think it's crying out for a fun hat and glove pairing (white? Really lean into the Easter-ness?)! Did I miss a belt or some other accessory at the waist? I do like the little bit of shine it brings.

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The Closet Historian · May 28, 2020

Thank you Caitlin! I made a quick little self fabric belt (just a strip of the same fabric interfaced and then sewn into a tube for a clean ribbon of it) with a vintage plastic belt buckle <3

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Karen Case · May 24, 2020

I think it’s lovely on you. I agree, it’s definitely a spring/summer fabric! Maybe one day there will be events like weddings - this would be a perfect dress for an afternoon garden wedding!

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The Closet Historian · May 28, 2020

Thank you Karen! Yes a good spring wedding dress for sure!

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Rob Ferguson · May 24, 2020

I think you look beautiful in this dress. Both the fabric and cut are very flattering. I'll send you some examples, via pinterest, of some ideas (3 actually) that have been puzzling me.

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The Closet Historian · May 28, 2020

Thank you Rob!

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Mel S. · May 24, 2020

Can't wait to watch this one! I agree on the style...it's one that I normally wouldn't gravitate toward, but I am always intrigued by it when I see it. So I'm excited to see how you construct it. I would love to see a 1930s beach pajama set! The trousers on them are so big and voluminous and super cool. In the 1992 film "Chaplin," Paulette Goddard played by Diane Lane, wears the most amazing beach pajamas in a beach scene. And I have wanted them ever since I saw them back in '92!! (incidentally, if you've never seen the film, it's got great costumes that span 60-70 years, and it's worth a viewing :) )

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The Closet Historian · May 28, 2020

Thank you Mel! I keep trying to find the perfect tropical print fabric for some beach pajamas <3