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February 20, 2020

Making a Taffeta Top // Some Kimono Sleeved Button Tops

Hello everyone!

Today is the day! Here is the first patreon exclusive pattern drafting and sewing video! I'll be showing you how I made the matching blue taffeta button back top to pair with my new pleated skirt. I may have sneakily put another front buttoning version variation too in the back half of this video for you also <3

I have a TON of sewing dominating my schedule just now, and I'll be sharing more behind the scenes photos and sneak peeks with you throughout the month of some other projects. I still want to share the planned but delayed iridescent blouse idea with you too in the future, and I've been able to snatch up a lovely iridescent linen to make it thanks to your help!

Please feel free to request some project ideas you would like to see from me in the future and perhaps even link me to images on pinterest of things you would like to see me draft for you all and maybe I can select a few and we can all have a vote sometime? 

Thank you so much for your support, I hope you enjoy the video!

Making a Taffeta Top // Kimono Sleeved Button Tops (YouTube)

Comments (29)

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I · January 5, 2021

I curve off my darts. Fancy me!!

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Lacey Bertrand · June 22, 2020

I'm a bit late to this party - as a new member, I'm catching up on all your past Patreon entries - but I just have to say how much I LOVE the "Vegas jacket"!! I tend to fall back on commercial patterns because I'm lazy and just want the pretty dress *right now*, but your videos are totally inspiring me to do more pattern drafting for myself.

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Karel Jennings · March 2, 2020

Thanks so much! Love all of this series---and I adored the Ravenclaw Look Book. I do have a bit of a quandary buzzing about my head, and I need to figure it out before October 15, when my son is getting married. When they set the date several months ago, I knew her color of cranberry would work very well for a length for some silk Dupioni and cranberry lace as an overlay. I had everything in my stash, so I bought some sexy for an old lady shoes and a vintage pattern and figured I was set. Well, no. When she was shopping for bridesmaids dresses, she fell in love with a cinnamon color. Her mother is wearing silver. Then, she purchased a gorgeous all lace dress with a Viennese lace train. She has asked for no one else to wear lace, which I totally get, but all my plans are out the window. I love her dearly, but I need some help with colors and fabric choices for this. I love her dearly, and am willingly making changes (plus, another pair of shoes!), but could use some help. The dress pattern is very simple, an aline floor length with a slip dress and a dress of a sheer fabric over it. I thought of maybe bronze, but can't find 2 matching colors that will work. Not to mention notions. I'd love it if you, and maybe the other patreons, could offer me some advice. I'd have to order on-line, as I don't drive. I also thought of making a 2-hour dress...maybe you could make one fancy enough for a wedding (a big, ritzy wedding) that's floor-length? Help, please, before I start pulling the threads out of my already frayed sweatshirt! Thanks so much!!

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The Closet Historian · March 8, 2020

I wonder if you could still use the same pattern perhaps but opt for an organza or even a swiss dot sort of subtle texture for the overlay layer to avoid lace? An iridescent bronze organza over even a cranberry base could be quite rich and pretty, if the organza is too transparent one could always use two layers. I have had my eye on this pretty subtly printed organza at Mood for ages https://www.moodfabrics.com/rich-metallic-gold-and-merlot-scroll-printed-organza-lame-328198 or a textured organza could be fun, though this one is rather pricey https://www.moodfabrics.com/metallic-wine-striped-bubble-wrap-organza-brocade-127881 When you say 2 hour dress do you mean the 1920's ones? I have just never heard of a 2 hour dress, I just know of the 1920's 1 hour. I think a simple 20's dress could certainly be made very formal in a full length with a fabulous fabric. Doing a sort of almost Fortuny inspired version in say a rich rust silk rayon velvet with beads along the shoulders would be super lovely for fall I think, though not everyone likes velvet as I do. A burnout velvet actually might be nice for the overlay of the other pattern too, like this fall colored one which would look great next to cinnamon I'd think https://www.moodfabrics.com/italian-red-and-olive-floral-velvet-burnout-327250 I am certainly glad I have not had to deal with many weddings myself, as there is so much to consider! I have only been in one wedding and my only guidelines were steel blue and sleeveless, but even those I found difficult!

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Dana Hix · February 29, 2020

I love it with the belt! I have a question about the lining. How do you decide what to line a garment with? Is there a benefit to the silk you used over say a cotton? I haven't lined many things so I really don't know what all to take into consideration. Thank you! This is lovely!

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The Closet Historian · March 2, 2020

Thank you Dana! I usually prefer to line most anything with rayon lining fabric (which I do not line my all things as a rule, especially for summery projects I usually just use facings to finish garments). However, if I don't have any rayon lining fabric on hand, I will use whatever I have around that will work best. So for something like this top, I know often with this style of sleeve the lining is seen when one moves around, so I wanted something pretty enough I wouldn't mind it being seen, so I went with this scrap of iridescent taffeta I had around. I would say linings are best done in slippy fabrics like rayon and silk because they are nice next to the skin and allow the items to slide over anything you are wearing underneath with ease. So say a bolero or jacket, it is best to have a rayon or silk lining so that the outerwear moves easily when worn on top of anything else. A cotton lining is more likely to sort of "catch" or create friction with any garment worn underneath it. Still, if I were making a summer dress out of a sheer cotton say, I would probably line it in a more opaque cotton for consistency since I like to be able to toss things like that in the wash with ease. But really as I rule I don't line things terribly often, usually only if something is sheer or is wool and would be itchy otherwise. Sometimes bag lining something is easier than having to finish the neckline/sleeves/hem edges etc in other ways too, so it almost just depends on what I feel like doing on the day really.

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Anna · February 27, 2020

I love coordinating separates, and will definitely be adding this to my project list. A hint on button back blouses for those that live alone...button the middle ones and pull it over your head. You should be able to reach the others once it is on 😉

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Kelly Marie · February 27, 2020

Love the top! As always your videos are so well made, and well explained. They help me get out of sewing ruts!

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Kimberly Costa · February 25, 2020

Is it weird to say I really like watching your hands? They have a life and language of their own! 😁

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The Closet Historian · February 27, 2020

Thank you Kimberly! I have always figured I have quite un-feminine hands for whatever reason, but they allow me to do so much work, and typing of course too, that I love them regardless ha!

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Akinat · February 23, 2020

I absolutely loved this video! That top is so very versatile and I adore both versions. Getting the one with the buttons on the back on does seem like a challenge when you have no one that can help you. I’m trying to think of patterning requests but nothing has come to mind yet. When I’ll find something I will share it here.

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The Closet Historian · February 27, 2020

Thank you Akinat!

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Rhonda O'Dea · February 23, 2020

Loved both tops too!! Always wondered how they did the peplum cuz I like the look. I'd love to learn pattern draping once its draped then to the pattern itself. I understand the concept of draping the material whilst on the body but how does that translate into a paper pattern?? Just a thought. You might go, "Yeah, that's fairly easy to show" OR "Forget that one, thats just too hard" Warmest regards from Down Under <3

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The Closet Historian · February 27, 2020

Thank you Rhonda! When it comes to draping on the body or on a dress form, usually muslin is used at first when designing and fitting and one simply draws/marks with pencil or whatever they like onto the muslin itself, then you take the piece of muslin off and lay it flat on top of paper and trace/transfer all the markings from the muslin onto the paper and thus a paper version is created. If I had a professional dress form that was a true copy of my body I'd practice draping a little more often, but as I don't it's not something I play with much anymore. I quite like flat pattern drafting so it doesn't tend to bother me though!

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Anna · February 21, 2020

Hello! Really love this content, thank you! Also, thank you for being the inspiration to learn pattern drafting, and make my own block patterns. If I could make a request, I’d love to see the type of draping that is on the skirt of the yellow dress (Fig. 4) on these pins: https://pin.it/ARPuyiN. Love from London x

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The Closet Historian · February 21, 2020

Thank you Maria! Pattern drafting is super worth it in the end I promise! Thank you for the suggestion submission as well <3

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Alix McCulloch · February 21, 2020

Love both tops, great vid thanks. I'm trying to develop a sufficiently advanced yoga practice to be able to dress myself in button backed garments...

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The Closet Historian · February 21, 2020

Thank you Alix!

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Lynne (fanfickchick) · February 21, 2020

Everything I know about changing patterns comes from you. Lovely tops, really like the peplum. Out of curiosity, why do you slash your drawn lady's head?

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Alix McCulloch · February 21, 2020

Haha I wondered the same about the slashed head!

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Rob Ferguson · February 21, 2020

I think the gold top would look fantastic with a long black skirt for evening! I'm curious about how you made the decision to line these tops, rather than use facings. Was it because of the fabrics used, the design, ease of construction, etc. I'm thinking that the jacket version probably did need the lining, but the top version could have gone either way.

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The Closet Historian · February 21, 2020

Thank you Rob! I guess I thought to do a lining on the blue because the taffeta was on the thin an super crisp side, so I was afraid the edge of a facing would be seen through. Also I just didn't want to fuss with using bias to hem the sleeve area or facings there when they can sometimes be seen in this style during wear. For whatever reason it did indeed seem the easier option to me! As for the jacket, I had made a dress out of this same brocade before with only facings and knew from that experience just how scratchy and uncomfortable the lame was next to the skin, so I definitely knew I wanted a lining for that one!

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Ashley T · February 21, 2020

Excellent! Loved seeing the peplum. I would love to see you draft some more fanciful sleeves. I know you dont do them very often but I am sort of struggling to really get the fullness right. One example: https://pin.it/eaM%2FzQD

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The Closet Historian · February 21, 2020

Thank you Ashley! The sleeves on that dress, which is a sheer layered pastel dream btw, look to perhaps be giant bishop sleeves at a 3/4 length and out of a pleated fabric too, lots of volume! I will still be making the iridescent blouse I mentioned in this video, but out of a different fabric, and it will have exaggerated billowy bishop sleeves, so hopefully that will be of some similar help!

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Miss M Vintage · February 20, 2020

Fantastic! When I watched the skirt video and saw the matching top I was all like "awww man... I wanna see how she did the V neck version of that blouse!" And then you did it. And it was glorious. The vest/jacket great too!

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The Closet Historian · February 21, 2020

Thank you Emma! A few people have been requesting this video over on the channel, and it's like "well, I did make it, but..." Just for the patrons! <3

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Clara Irving-Mayes · February 20, 2020

And hot DANG I absolutely love The Man From U. N. C. L. E.!! It’s one of my favourites

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Clara Irving-Mayes · February 20, 2020

That is one (or two) SCANDALOUS neckline, Ms Esposito. They’re so pretty! And I’m so hyped for the lookbook ‘cause Ravenclaw is the best house and I’m not at all biased.

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The Closet Historian · February 21, 2020

So so scandalous I know! The neckline on my new 20's dress I'm working on is a bit lower, but even so, the slip underneath will help with that ;)