Making a Pake Muu (-ish) Dress
Well, I'm late turning in my paper...again.
Here is my first attempt at using my fresh new torso block to make something! Except the stretch in the fabric really did betray me a little bit in the end, and I think I might need one of those fancy locked-and-loaded midcentury girdle things to really rock this buddy with full confidence ehhh 😅 I miss my waist seam!
Anyhow, I hope you enjoy the video and thank you so much for your patience and support!
Links to mentioned things:
The torso block video: https://www.patreon.com/TheClosetHistorian/posts/torso-block-how-168221336
The quilting cotton that wasn't actual kona like I said: https://www.moodfabrics.com/products/premium-solid-quilting-cotton-by-northcott-guacamole-colorworks-collection-nc0454
Making A Pake Muu (-ish) Dress With My New Torso Block (YouTube)
Comments (36)
I'm half Slavic and half African, so I look awkward in any "cultural" garb, especially those of my own cultures. As a result, I feel no hesitation wearing whatever is flattering on me. It's my form of protest against ethnicity coded aesthetics as a 50/50 mutt. I think a cheongsam adjacent dress should be in any fashionable woman's closet.
Cheongsam are already quite a mix of Chinese inspired details wrought into more and more "western" shapes by the midcentury, they feel like a joint effort in some way. And I agree, are super chic!
I love the finish dress and specially the peek of color at the sleeves. And totally understand about the cultural appropriation feelings. As a fun tip, I add waist tape to my linen double ended darts dress because they tend to stretch at the waist. This has worked lovely for me, and helps them keep their shape throughout the years.
Great tip! I'm making one as we speak and will make sure to incorporate it!
Great dress! And the way you used that over the best darts. Genious! The pop of chartreuse is wonderful And did I hear you say you're part Dutch? 🇳🇱 Dutchie here
Thank you Diana! I am indeed part Dutch, mostly Italian but a mix of Dutch, English, and Czech for the last random bits. Must be why I love Dutch still life painting, London, and Czech glass beads so much ha!
I saw your design as an integration of Asian elements not appropriation of them. And I encourage you to follow Hanfugirl for interesting insights into Chinese culture, especially related to fashion. What struck me most about your finished dress was the way the chartreuse lining made it glow from the inside.
Thank you Holly! I like having a brighter contrast on a neckline like this, it does almost glow indeed!
All phasers on stunning! - George Takei.
I had never heard of this style of dress. Marvellous sleeves!
I love any excuse for a very fun sleeve!
With you on the dislike of a double-ended dart ... not something that works for my shape at all. That being said, this looks great on you and the sleeves are def worth reusing somewhere else!
Thank you Robyn! I will say I have since purchased a long-line all in one bra-girdle thing like they wore in the 50's/60's and it helps with getting this dress to look at least 50% smoother ha!
I’m here for all the fisheye saltiness LOL love the finished look. Those sleeves are gasp worthy!
Let's just say I have not been swayed to the side of the fisheye dart...ha! Thank you Ann!
Exchange is essential to culture, but becomes problematic when the exchange is not fair. Making something original by hand is art, and an act of devotion. I say give credit to the source material that inspired you, and go for it. I was gifted a beautiful peach kimono and obi, so when I got married, I wore it as my wedding dress. I did the research to find / make the foundation layers to wear it correctly, and I much preferred it to a boring and overpriced white dress. I think a wedding qualifies as a special occasion that deserves elegant formal wear, and that is exactly what a kimono is. I think I honored the dress by choosing it for my happiest day.
I would say without a doubt that /any/ kimono is bound to be soooo much prettier than most wedding dresses I have seen, so I think you made an extra good choice! I once challenged myself to design a mini collection of bridal wear in university for a project because I find most modern bridal gowns so awful. Course if I ever got married I would want a 1940's suit and a courthouse lol!
I love the sleeve. The dress works really well with it, and yellow lining is excellent.
Thank you Marie!
I love the 50s pattern cover with the lesbians on it! (Yes yes I know they were just special friends)
I also spotted that! Femme for femme matching outfits, and we love to see it!
Absolutely beautiful!
Thank you Ruth!
I respect the sentiment if not wanting to culturally appropriate. I also know--from some experience and a lot of research--that if the culture says "nah, that's fine" on a garment then it is fine to wear it. Then it is cutural appreciation, not appropriation. Though again, 100 respect Comfort level and one's own choice in this. That said, the dress is lovely. I Love the pop of contrasting color and the shape of those sleeves. And I have no synonym for snatched to add lol.
I actually just watched a reel by Hanfugirl, “Galliano vs Guo Pei,” where she explores these sentiments.
I’ve always loved the look of a qipao/cheongsam but, like you, I’m WAY too pasty white and it just feels ‘wrong’. Being both born in Germany and at least 1/4 German, I felt quite comfortable purchasing a dirndl whilst in Germany but could not bring myself to even try ON a qipao/cheongsam whilst in China. So, again, here I am living vicariously through you. I think it came out very nice. I see the stretch you’re talking about, but it doesn’t detract from the dress at all. You have made it your own … lol … a ‘Goth’ qipao/cheongsam!!
Thank you Debra! I am too much a mutt to feel "right" in any cultural dress I suppose, I'm more Californian than anything I expect ha!
Save that sleeve for your next intergalactic real estate lady dress! The dress looks great on you! You made lemonade (bat-influenced, but still) out of pattern drafting lemons :) It’s hard to step out of your comfort zone (I struggle) so congratulations are in order.
Thank you Susan! It's important to buy up good lots on Ganymede, though it's very chilly out there!
Does cinched work for a snatched substitute? PS love the dress! The chartreuse sleeve lining is awesome 🖤
Yes cinched is most excellent indeed!
I have been wanting to sew this dress for a long time, Thank you, Bianca!
Hope it was useful! Thank you Miriam!
This dress is lovely and you look ready for an evening out at Trader Vic's. All you need now is a Mai Tai.
Great minds! I was thinking "Morticia goes to Trader Vic's," which is an excellent look. The flash of chartreuse is the perfect touch. Fabulous as always, Bianca!
Love the peek of green!