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Demure tea dress - A0.pdf 2.1 MB
Demure tea dress - tiled A-B.pdf 2.5 MB
Demure tea dress - tiled C-D.pdf 2.5 MB
Demure tea dress - tiled DD-E-F.pdf 2.5 MB
Demure tea dress - tiled G-H.pdf 2.5 MB
Demure Tea Dress Instructions.pdf 4.8 MB
Buttonholes A Tuppence Ha'penny Guide.pdf 11.0 MB
October 9, 2024

Introducing the Demure Tea Dress

The Demure Tea Dress is a late 30s dress with shaped waistline and shirtwaist styling, based on Hollywood 1552 circa 1939.

I'm delighted to introduce the Demure Tea Dress - ostensibly September's pattern (October's pattern is on track for release later this month).

The Demure Tea Dress is late 30s dress with shirtwaist styling. The pattern a faithful reproduction of Hollywood Patterns 1552, released circa 1939. This was the first vintage pattern I purchased and made (as seen on the cover) way back in 2010, so it's very special to me.

I’ve made a couple of minor tweaks to the original pattern: I shortened the skirt slightly from the original length so it falls to below the knee rather than mid-calf; and made a small adjustment to the front facing so the collar may be convertible. Other than that it’s exactly as it came out of the packet in 1939.

The blouse meets the bias cut skirt with a shaped waistline in front, sewn with a lapped seam. Soft pleats release bust fullness.

Two styles of sleeves are included: plain darted short sleeve and a bodacious late 30s shirred puff sleeve, which is cut on the bias. There is also an optional pleated patch pocket.

*** Edited to add: I should note that the instructions are also more or less exactly as originally written - I've added some clarification but kept the steps as outlined in the original pattern. The steps to attach the collar and cuffs are unusual in that they propose sewing the inner seam first, then the outer seam, while most sewing patterns I've used (both vintage and modern) sew the outer seam first, then slipstitch the inner. Feel free to use your preferred method!

Comments (21)

I
Ifi Susana-Jackson · July 22, 2026

How similar is the skirt fit for this pattern compared to culture cafe? I have 42 in hips but 28 waist and I graded size 16 to 22 in the cafe dress and it was way too big so ended up cutting a straight 16.

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Tuppence Ha'penny · July 22, 2026

The shape has quite a flared shape with generous hip ease - you should be fine cutting for your waist size in this one.

H
Historia · October 5, 2025

Oh my goodness! This is just what I'm looking for. I am the CEO of a company that provides services to vulnerable people so it is important that I look professional but not corporate. I've been looking for a lovely dress pattern to make up for our hot, Australian summers. I can't wait to make this one.

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Nina · October 16, 2024

Hi there! Can I just ask...is the size chart our body size or garment size? Thank you!

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Tuppence Ha'penny · October 7, 2025

The size chart is body size (so sorry for the extreme delay responding - I just spotted this!)

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Una Doyle @SewVintageGlam · October 12, 2024

Lovely 🥰 Quick Q please. What do you mean by the collar being convertible? 🤔

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Tuppence Ha'penny · October 14, 2024

Convertible collar just means it can either be worn buttoned up to the top as pictured in the pattern illustration, or worn open as shown in the photos. The original pattern didn't include enough front facing for the second option (the edge of the facing is visible if you wear the collar open), so I redrafted it.

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Janine Spendlove · October 11, 2024

Ohhhhh I can’t wait to try this!

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Tuppence Ha'penny · October 14, 2024

Yayyy - have fun!

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MEW Designs · October 11, 2024

Step 6, the CB dart - same length as the other darts but how wide (dart value) does it need to be please?

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Tuppence Ha'penny · October 11, 2024

Sorry - it should be the same width as the other two darts, i.e. 1/4" from the folded edge or 1/2" wide (hope that makes sense!)

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Judith Petree · October 10, 2024

A dress that can make Bette Davis look demure....there's hope for the rest of us! Seriously, this is lovely and I am a convertible collar enthusiast.

M
Miss Fanny Tittington · October 9, 2024

This is truly beautiful. Thank you so much for sharing your talent. I’m excited about making this even though I don’t have a lot of time to sew it’s definitely going on the list.

C
Cat Bee · October 9, 2024

See how she releases a darling 1939 shirtdress exactly when I’ve been planning my next shirtdress? Very demure, very mindful. 😅❤️

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Tuppence Ha'penny · October 9, 2024

The name fit so perfectly I couldn't resist 😊 Can't wait to see what you make!

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Amy Thoma · October 9, 2024

Gorgeous! I always get so excited when you release a new pattern….they are all so beautiful and just my style! 💕❤️

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Tuppence Ha'penny · October 9, 2024

Yayy! I only ever release patterns that I personally want to sew, so I'm glad you like them too 😊

A
Amanda Steward · October 9, 2024

Excellent name! 😉 thank you

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Tuppence Ha'penny · October 9, 2024

I couldn't resist 😊

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Sewingmama4 · October 9, 2024

Can you provide a bit more of an explanation to step 15? I've heard of lapped zippers but not lapped seams.

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Tuppence Ha'penny · October 9, 2024

A lapped seam is where, instead of sewing the seam with right sides together as normal, you create an overlap at the seam line. You fold under the seam allowance of one piece (in this case, the skirt), lay it over the top of the other piece (the bodice), and topstitch the seam, close to the folded edge. There's a video by Simplicity patterns here: https://simplicity.com/how-to-sew-lapped-seam