README & Guide using the cars

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Welcome to my Patreon page. My name is Valters Boze, I am making mods mostly for Assetto Corsa for 6+ years, focusing on realism and physics. I’ve attended and worked at Formula Drift events for the past 12 years without missing a round, supporting drivers and teams in carious capacities. Generally been around drifting for 25+ years with background with IT engineering and organizing my own car festivals in Latvia, so obviously most of my cars and tracks are oriented around drifting and Formula Drift specifically. I also work various duties at Sorensen Motorsports so those cars are often updated first. Most of my cars are based on CSP Cosmic suspension based on true 3d scans of actual chassis, not some forza rips with imaginary arcade physics. Tires are custom (if not otherwise specified) and do require warming them up and will last as much as typical FD tires.
Trademarks and brands like Formula Drift, Driftmasters GP, Best in The Desert, etc., do not indicate that I am sponsored or officially endorsed by these entities. All my work is independent, unofficial and those terms are only used to better describe the event/layout I am recreating. Apparently this is something Im advised to include for troublemakers.

Guide

Update 04/23/2026

DISCLAIMER - These are finished simulation mods for personal use; editable car templates are not offered. Editing/changing car visuals and data or uploading my content elsewhere is strictly forbidden. I make real life replicas as close as possible. Ive pent years on perfecting the 3d chassis and suspensions. These cars do not handle like average AC drift car pack for the sole reason all those packs use simplified vanilla AC physics models that are easy for anyone to drift around looking like a pro. Most of car packs out there have close to zero relation to real life suspension. Dont subscribe and then complain that its hard to drive (theyre not). I've made Camren's pro-am car for free - try it and see if it fits your rig/driving before complaining. These cars are made for drivers with good simrigs as well as everyone who wants to learn drifting the right way using all your inputs on fast and agile cars. A good simrig is basically VR + Simucube 2 pro or Simagic Ultimate + basic seat mover motion seat. Belt driven wheels or Fanatec - forget it. there is also known issues with moza R9 and extended physics, youve been warned.

Also quite often i get messages that my cars are harder to drive. It should be. They dont just slide on their own like some Forza arcade. Put in effort. A video speaks thousand words: https://www.instagram.com/reel/DeZbpOllOfR/?srtk=Nm5jcDB6dWp5eTJr

Tires:

All my newer cars use tires that need to be scrubbed in ~1% to get max grip. Use the tires app to see if theyre good if you cant tell by feel. No scrub in / warm up - less front grip on first turns. If tire says eg GT255 or KND - those are new tires Im making. Recently i've been also including TW160 tires for newer FD cars. Those are higher grip tires which come off the Driftmasters GP cars i make. Can help keep up with e.g. VDC packs. There is no contact patch simulated in AC. Rear camber setting is important - positive camber in general will have less side bite and negative camber will have more. Depending on car and its tire version - adjust to your liking. Pressure grip is not currently implemented well in AC/CSP. Low pressure wont give you more grip, but it will flex more and make the car less snappy/agile. Personal recommendation - 17psi rear, 24psi front. Tire temps you see in the apps are mostly surface temps. They go way over 350C / ~500F as IRL.

Steering:
- some cars are set to 900' wheel and some cars are 1080 and usually indicated in title of car. if you have a fast DD wheel and want to drive full rotation send me a message I will pack up a 1080 or 1150 version. Most consumer wheels have slow rpm and slow acceleration ramp especially with heavy aftermarket rims so during transitions the wheelbase won't keep up and you will spin out. Set your wheel software and game to 900 or else you might experience issues controlling the car. Dont blame the car, fix your rig - upgrade to Simucube 2 Pro and never look back. For extra inputs consider haptic pad, buttshakers or motion seat ( I am using DX2 Ultra which is insanely good for the price btw).

Suspension setups:

2025+ cars - all Sorensen Motorsport cars use same suspension components, mildly different settings on spring rate, shocks, arb. Obviously different tires, as well as different drivelines. 2025+ cars have all MCS shocks, FDF trailing arms and Branden Sorensen v2 front angle kit. MCS are valved pretty mild so maxxing them out is ok.

(Camren's) Pro-am car is well set up for anyone, just lacking power. (Amanda's) Prospec car is decent. (Branden's) Pro car is gripped up per real life specs, except tire PSI. If you want a milder/looser setup a decent setup is:

Front toe: -0.2
Front Camber: -5
Front Caster: 7-8 degrees
Rear toe: 0.15
Rear Camber: 0
Adjust dampers to your liking but its pretty soft on the PRO car even maxxed out, it is a heavier car on very soft springs for maximum shock travel.
You may want to set rear ARB to 20-30k for easier slides. Realistic values are 2.4k to 4.5k or none at all.

These are simulation replicas that have realistic inertia and suspension geometry including accurate bump-steer (something 99% AC mods don't have). Setups are important!

Use the in-game setup screen where you can see the actual values displayed. Make sure you're on solid ground and start the car at least once before going to pits to set up. That will ensure that car is settled as launching the game it doesn't settle right away. Then start rolling and drive around at least a few feet for the tires to settle and check your toe settings in the in-game suspensions app. It can be vastly different than the setup screen. E.g. proam car in setup screen can show -2 degree toe, while in-game driving will acually be -0.2. That is because tires do not settle when you're in pits. Latest CSP preview versions have mitigated this to spawn the cars with relaxed suspension, but results may vary

Verify the settings are what you want on every track as tracks have different grip as well as a lot of car params do change for different altitudes. e.g. driving high altitude (like Colorado) tracks not only engine power will be down but also suspension/tire deflection will be different. NOTE: when you "reset to pits" - the car may or may not be in static setting depending how the pits are set up. sometimes you need to roll slightly forward for tires to relax and show true suspension settings. Use “Pocket Technician” app to tune suspension outside pits.
The settings themselves are mostly 1mm or 0.1mm adjustments on arms and links. Most adjustments except basic TOE setting WILL change every other spec. e.g. changing rear arms length to adjust camber WILL affect toe. Changing front camber WILL affect caster and toe just like on real cars. I do NOT use vanilla AC Camber and Toe settings - they are virtual and fake so they are effectively zeroed and removed from setup screen.
Installing ACUIR in-game setup screen replacement will make adjusting things easier, as well as "Pocket Mechanic" from "App Shelf"

Damage - all COSMIC suspension links are installed close to real life specs so hitting a wall hard enough will break something. All the joints work properly. Dont crash into walls.

Requirements:

• CSP 2.11+ is absolutely required for running COSMIC suspension. There's no going back from it. 2.11 is the latest free version and I highly suggest using paid ($1/mo) CSP 3 version, link in “Recommendations”

• Direct drive wheelbase is required. I've seen some guys run these cars on Logitech wheels and even joysticks without problems but those are rarities. Just because someone skilled can handle it doesnt mean 90% of people will. Belt wheel is possible at low rotation (540-720) but really you need a fast wheel to manage decent inertia box cars through transitions. Simagic & Simucube are great both run at 300+ rpm, even the simagic alpha mini. Fanatec DD wheels are ok as long as used with original plastic rims. Put a steel rim on it and its a snail. Workaround - decrease rotation degrees in assetto to 720 or 540. Moza direct drive are hit or miss and supposedly dont work with Real Feel and CSP FFB scripts.

• Decent PC. Cars have 600+ objects each, a lot of animations and textures as well as advanced physics that takes way more calculating power. If your PC cant reach good framerates you may not enjoy. Motion rigs - in short - they suck for drifting, best one is a "seat mover". I highly advise to avoid motion systems that move the whole rig. I do suggest adding haptic feedback systems to your rig like haptic pad or buttkicker (or a subwoofer under seat and run with SimHub).

  
  If you have any questions - comment below I will update this page, or DM.