fashion
it's danger
Comments (123)
I have another suggestion in addition to thrifting: clothes swapping parties. For me this has been a great way over the years to avoid buying a lot of new clothing myself. The basic idea is you invite a bunch of friends, and everybody brings a bag of of clothes they don't wear anymore for whatever reason. You need some kind of system to present the clothes, and make sure interested people can claim them, and a system for popular items that a lot of people like. Usually we do it in 'rounds' where one person picks up someone else's bag, tries to sell the clothes in it with as much smooth salesmanship as possible, and if someone wants a piece, they make it known , and you throw it at them. Every so often, you do a break for trying on. This is also the point where highly contested pieces of clothing are tried on by different people, and you could use whatever method seems necessary to settle the conflict. It's also a good excuse to get together, get drunk, and dress up in somebody's grandma's bathing suit or practise other types of cosplay. The clothes nobody wants are brought to a thrift store afterwards by the host. When I do buy something new, it's mostly underwear, or very basic high-quality items such as Madame X was talking about like a pair of black pants. But a lot of my more 'experimental' or funny clothes are gained through these parties, or thrifting, or a combination of the two.
This has become my all-time favorite episode. I learned to hand sew from my mom, machine sew by my teacher, and different hand stitches off Wikipedia. Recently I came into possession of a 1913 Singer treadle machine (For FORTY DOLLARS!), and I LOVE IT. Just had to oil it, tighten up some play on the joints, and get a new belt. Also got a 1914 White Rotary that was given to me by a friend, but I have no motor pedal for it. Hell this episode is what motivated me to really up my sewing. I've sewn buttons onto a field jacket of mine, practiced some embroidery, done plenty of repairs. I really want to find proper fabric to sew on pockets to my work jackets/ pants, and make my own jacket or shirts. Also have a shirt that belonged to my Grandfather that I wanna shrink down to my size. Sewing is such an immensly useful skill and I have no idea why it's not taught more in schools. I'm also a small and skinny guy, so finding proper fitting clothes (Especially work clothing) is such a pain, since most things are made for a 6'9" oilfield worker (Looking at you Carhartt). On the bright side, XL kid's work clothing is both cheaper and fits almost better than a men's size S.
Finally getting to this episode, looking for something to listen to as I walk to the liquor store, hoping for something moderately long, maybe a bit over an hour. Nope. Listening anyway
Just a small correction. Shoes started to be made on straight lasts in the 18th century as it was easier to attach heels. You cannot swap straight last shoes as they form to your foot fairly quickly and will take all your skin off if you try to swap feet.
Madame X, that supposedly was amazing. Damn good episode all.
I used to work in a sewing factory in hellertown, PA. It closed and became part of the car lot next door some years ago
I never get the hate for the die work wear guy. Like he can be annoying but just don’t follow the guy then? Always seems like people are trying so hard to nitpick and dunk on him bc he’s popular
Yesssss shouts out to G street fabrics, now located in Montgomery county. It's actually a very nice store, lots of buttons!
I don’t know if we can make suggestions but it sure would be cool if you would do an episode on the Bijlmer disaster (El Al flight 1862).
Please for the love of god release all the bonus episodes on the RSS feed. I hate listening to things outside my podcast player. Heavily considering canceling my Patreon as I get nothing out of it right now.
keep that up and they'll probably pin your comment
Banger episode! One of the best. I was sewing by hand the entire time I listened to this, the rage powered me through the process
That being said, as someone whose job is making clothes for historic interpreters and who specifically does a lot with civilian menswear, I loved this episode SO MUCH
I work specifically in 18th century clothing, and just need to well actually the “switching straight/single lasted shoes” thing - that myth comes from a single manual written by a guy who had Opinions about how to make armies more efficient. He theorized that switching what feet you wore your shoes on would make them last longer, but wear patterns on surviving shoes suggest that this wasn’t really done. Most likely because straight lasted shoes break in and mould to your feet (bc real leather) and so they don’t stay interchangeable for long. Swapping shoes would have hurt like HELL to wear
What is the wtyp email? I have a safety third.
The thing about Monsanto is you cannot have soil health and Monsanto at the same time. Their whole financial model is to sell you more chemicals and engineered seeds to the point where it's impossible for nature to coexist with the farming model they create. You get sucked in to what amounts to a subscription model for patented seeds and chemicals, and at the same time this destroys the biodiversity of the soil. Which conveniently for Monsanto (who is now Bayer), means your soil is ruined and now you have no choice but to continue buying chemicals from them to prop up your crops, or spend years remediating the soil. I don't fault you for thinking Monsanto is good, but to learn more about this I highly, highly recommend the book Terra Viva by Vandana Shiva, which goes in to detail how socially and ecologically harmful Monsanto is, and presents clear alternatives for what a leftist future would look like. It would actually make a great Left on Read episode, because Shiva goes in to detail on her lifetime of activism against global corporations whose sole aim is to extract wealth from communities and alienate people from their land. I love books from India because they fucking remember colonization and they also don't worship European theory so they have their own takes on socialism and anarchism in practice, and they are hardcore about it.
Vandana Shiva is a quack
Love the podcast. Hate the sewing machine recommendation. —Kenmore 158 gang
I wiill stack my Kenmore 90 against any new, domestic machine that retails for under 3K today. And I say that as someone who owns like a hundred vintage sewing machines (seriously. I've lost count.). Broadly speaking, any brand of machine made in Japan, before 1975, will deliver good results-- except Brother. They started cheaping out around 1967. But Janome/New Home and Maruzen/Jaguar are solid choices. The Janome 672 is an exceptional choice as are any of the 'Sears Best' Kenmores up to about the 158.1914. Montgomery-Ward branded machines (made by Happy, how cute is that?) are also very good. European machines that won't disappoint are any Adler you can find; any Phoenix; any Anker; the Necchi Supernova, Nora, BU Nova or BU Mira; and the Husqvarna Viking 19/21/51 series. The Colormatic series has shown to be problematic after numbers higher than 6020 (which my tech says is the finest machine the Swedes ever made). Any of the round, black Singers won't disappoint. The 206/306/319 "Swing-needle" Singers run fine with a DBx1 needle, but are becoming collectible and command a premium price. The Singer 327/328 are fine but maybe a bit noisy. The 401/403 is pretty darn good, and the 501/503 has those same mechanicals, but in a fancy Jet Age suit. Singer made millions, don't be grifted into thinking they're rare. "Randy Your Sewing Machine Man" on YouTube has a lot of 5-minute videos showcasing machines he likes or hates, well worth the time to check out. They're out there. Go get you one.
it seems I can download 'Legionnaire's' but not this one. What gives?
you did a lecture on capitalism through fassion. love it
Top tier bonus episode: -we all learned something interesting and depressing -enthusiastic and mysterious guest -approx the length of the Moby Dick audiobook
Was stoked to find the shoes from American Duchess, thank you Mystery Guest!
not the first time you advocate for killing animals, but maybe we can turn all the deer we shot in the appalacians into something usefull
Another way to make clothes last longer and look good is drying them on a rack. I have 20 plus year-old t-shirts and polo’s that look great because they’ve never been in a dryer. The same is true of cotton pants, and (non-cotton) underwear. The only things I put in the dryer are bedding, towels, and socks. And as they said on this episode, I buy good quality clothes and take care of them. (My mother, the Gods rest her soul, taught me that.)
Excited to see the new "Off Horse" Belt in the merch store
As patrons we have the power to create a dripped out Liam.
Articles of Interest is another good podcast about clothing and fashion, she gets into fast fashion and why clothing for fat people is often so bizarre (see: cold shoulder shirts etc).
The children yearn for a Woolworths
Kill La Kill is really all you need to know about the dangers of fashion
Hey y’all, I’m a new patron, can anyone explain how to access the video versions of the other bonus episodes? thanks
If you go back through the patreon archive you'll find them, but I think someone does have a link to the playlist somewhere.
Not true. “The crochet machines created by COMEZ are also known as “warp knitting machines.” They have multiple needles that each correspond to a specific thread and they work together to create a crochet-like fabric that is said to be highly “drape-able.”” https://www.crochetconcupiscence.com/is-there-such-a-thing-as-a-crochet-machine/ The machines exist.
That's a warp knitting machine, it's just called a crochet machine sometimes because it can create lace/net, which can be made multiple ways including through crochet. The specific type of fabric it creates is called Raschel Knit. It can't create granny squares, amirgurumi or other crochet patterns which require putting the hook into a hole multiple times, for examples of this google "target crochet". Also if you read the link you pasted, rather than just grabbing the google summary, then you'll see that page says: "However, as anyone who crochets knows, there are no needles in crochet work (except for the ones used to weave in ends!) and therefore this really isn’t anything like a true handmade crochet creation. To date, there are no machines that can replicate the type of crochet that we do by hand. This makes crochet unique." directly after the quote you posted.
I do tend to invent my own uniforms for autism reasons and I'm always looking forward to the jumpsuit and rubber boots era. Any job that has dress codes should just give you a uniform and I could be pushed to say that the Mao suit was a great concept.
Liam, if you don't like doing the podcast, please quit. It makes me depressed listening to a podcast where one of the members seems to rather be somewhere else.
Jeez Guus, have a little compassion. We all have our off days and many of us are working with mental health issues with little to no healthcare. How would you feel if Liam came to the Taco Bell drive-thru window and told you to just quit?
I'm glad it was such a short delay from me yelling at my screen for zouaves to Alice brining up zouaves.
ooh I did not know that about a button shank, I'll try it
I learnt that one in brownies and it really works. Unlike my attempt to darn a sock.
2:08:00 Stav if he never got in a fight with his dad
Ok I have thoughts. Patterns, notions, and fabric cost money, sometimes a lot of money. Sewing equipment, scissors, machines, pins, etc all cost money. Sewing takes time, a dedicated space, and specialized skill. Sewing classes cost money. If you’re poor, you need clothing to go to your grinding horrible job so you can feed your kids. You can’t send your kids to school naked. You can’t pay for or take time to sew because you’re trying to avoid being evicted. Where does the time and money come from for even middle class people to learn to sew and buy materials and equipment? Where does the TIME come from for a poor single parent who is working 2 or 3 jobs? Thrift shopping is also completely unsustainable now. Thrift shops have jacked prices through the roof. If you don’t believe me, check the thrift grift subreddit. If you are fat, thrift store clothing does not exist for you. If you’re fat, patterns either don’t exist, are more expensive, or you have to know how to do extensive customization to make them work for your body. Add to this the fact that fat people are more likely to be poor. Disability. Not everyone has the physical capability to sew or learn to sew. Not everyone has the type of mind it takes to learn sewing. I’m not siding with SHEIN or fast fashion in general but the recommendation to just sew your own shit is WILDLY unrealistic to impossible for many many people.
as a fat middle class person honestly I buy stuff I like from wherever (milsurp, my local charity shop, I very rarely buy any clothes from first hand places nowadays) and just sew panels up the sides (by hand) to make them fit and you can get free patterns customised to your body from http://freesewing.org/ (though most people do actually include big sizes in their patterns nowadays) I'm currently sewing some cycling trousers because I want some and got some cheap fabric from my local fabric store. I started by sewing on a sewing machine but it's so annoying to get it out and it's noisy and everything compared to sewing by hand, I've put some of my shittiest hand sewn stuff through the washing machine and it's ended up fine btw, also I've never had sewing lessons the main thing I recommend people spend money on is not to get the cheapest needles, they don't thread easily and they also bend really easily. The good needles are pennies more expensive (something like john james) you can use shitty thread you just have to go over it more, but gutermann isn't wildly expensive and is pretty good. Also in terms of disability, there's easy thread needles which I've seen a blind person use which was pretty good, usually they're just for people with low dexterity. And recently tumblr linked me to this https://www.moodfabrics.com/blog/category/free-sewing-patterns/adaptive-patterns/ which is pretty cool, they're patterns for people with disabilities and not just the way the clothes are made, they're also easier for people to sew. I don't think anyone is expecting people who really don't have the time or money to make anything to be able to whip up a tuxedo, but like, it's easier than people think and functional and useful clothing doesn't have to look like it was made on a machine. The only people who are looking on the inside of your clothes probably don't care your hems aren't perfect. Also if you can't cut fabric you just need to choose the right fabric and patterns. A lot of old clothes are just made from squares. Check out how to make a greek chiton (you just need a big sheet of fabric and safety pins). Also a good source for cheap fabric I've found is sometimes people just abandon stuff on the streets, I've put it in the washing machine on high heat. I'm confused to why someone would throw away a great bed sheet, but like whatever, mine now. Also fabric costs less from fabric shops than what the clothes cost, especially if you're buying really cheap stuff. It's the time which costs a bit more, but I like tend to do chores and sewing when watching 4h long wtyp.
Haven’t listened yet, wondering how many times Hugo Boss is going to come up and in which contexts.
I really wanna go down to the department store downtown, pick up some shirts to look nice, but I'm cursed with Tall Torso. I've found decent LT-size flannels online (Lands' End, not Shein), but once those wear out I should probably find a seamstress or tailor locally to fit me out instead. Jeans are a bit easier since I can just buy ones that fit my waist and shorten them.
Me at 2:03:00 "...Fursuits..."
There are now Shein brick and mortar stores, as well. Just popups so far but there's a path to travel here.
I agree, go to Joann fabrics. Even if you don't sew, walking around and admiring the fabrics is a delight
When I got into painting tabletop minis, Joann was where I got my first paints and brushes. And an icing dye I found there made the best smoke plumes. I've since upgraded, but it's my first stop when I want to do something Unusual.
Please use the patreon money to dress up as zouaves, also realising that the modern Warhammer release cycle is just fast fashion.
"Coming for the ass of Madame X" is a powerful phrase I didn't know I needed in my life
Great Episode! Fun social media user report: About an hour after watching this clip on my laptop in the Patreon stream, I sat down on the backalley stairs for a quiet smoke. Browsing Youtube shorts on my phone, and about 10 swipes in I got served the EXACT snippet of The Devil Wears Prada referenced here. First time it served me anything of that movie, or even genre, and it was also trimmed perfectly to the very dialogue that was transcribed in the episode. Was great to see it in context, actually :)
On second thought I appreciate how even the 'secret' WTIYP episodes have an impact on skewing the algorithm. I we could somehow reach a critical podcast tipping point, we might just be able to turn the singularity marxist before they even know it.
My grandmother credits being able to make their own clothes with surviving the Great Depression...this nonsense won't last forever.
If anyone is interested in a thorough examination of notable piece of crap Karl Lagerfeld, the Bad Gays podcast did an episode about him very recently.
Maintenance Phase also covered him in hilarious detail!
hype!!! long ep for train ride also first time i have ever watched the slides. living in luxury
yO i just got stitched up from communist book swap completely by chance. bless.
I bought a leather welding jacket for work that gave me horrible contact dermatitis. Chromium salts people, they're bad. The enshittificstion extends even unto legitimate workwear.
Funnily enough I watched this episode while finishing a jacket for a client. It's about 10 hours of work, 60% of it being hand sewn. Learn to do your own repairs because all Seamstresses HATE repairs and alterations- my own repairs and alterations pile often sits untouched for 6 months.
I think my record is the very cool tentacle print dress I got that's already been lengthened at the shoulders and has been waiting to be lengthened at the waist for about 5 years now. Might just make it a skirt.
Had to pause to go down a rabbithole about 100+ year old jeans
Did you find any down there?
Quick note- most “crochet” in mass produced settings is actually knitted on highly specialized machines.
To add to that, real crochet stitches are one of the rare things that cannot be replicated by machines. So all crocheted items should be by definition handmade.
Oh thank you thank you I can zone out for the rest of my work day 🙏
did November see Pinsent on the tube? Hell yeah I've met him at pride :)
Yay! A nice long episode to do chores to this week!
🎶 We are the goon squad and we’re coming to town, beep-beep 🎶 Edit: Apologies if you’ve already covered this in an earlier episode, but I’d like to suggest disastrous medical devices, implants or engineered pharmaceuticals as a show topic (for example Philips Respironics ventilators, breast implants/tissue expanders, thalidomide or fentanyl). Another suggestion: a history of lab-engineered fake meat. Thanks for a great show! Love to you all.
Adding to the medical devices, the transvaginal mesh scandal is off chops. There’s that propublica article about penis enhancement too. That’s a bit less objectively sad, at least most penisers voluntarily sought out the treatment.
Now I want to see one on jewelry! Especially talking about “trade beads”
Genuinely thought this was Dr Janega when the audio first kicked in.
"what the fuck is milk?"
Fabulous episode! 👏
Let's fucking gooooooo!
I got horrifically bad kidney stones a few times until I cut back on the gallon of whole milk a week I was going thru. God I hope that never happens again
also I know this was recorded a while ago but the MLB jerseys would have been a perfect fit(pun intended)
The plausibly deniable guest
I bought a serger sorta recently. Its a Toyota. I had to know if this is a thing I can do. I'm not awesome, but its such an amazing thing of engineering. I've 4x threaded it many times now -- still no idea how it works. It seems impossible. I made a tent with thinsulate walls so far. I just joined. I'm new.
I keep my clothes on the Floordrobe.
This is why I try my best avoid clothing :D
What a wonderful guest, so many things I would have never thought of. However, I think that the 4 hour run time was detrimental. This would have been great as a mini series of maybe 5 episodes focusing on a specific topic. I think that this would make it easier for both us the listeners and for you guys recording. The energy you had at the start was gone later in the podcast. As an example of a podcast that does this well, Lions Led by Donkeys splits large stories into multiple episodes which I think works well for stories that deserve more time. You've mentioned in the past that its sometimes hard to find things to talk about as you've covered all of the major engineering disasters, making multiple episodes would help. This is coming from a place of love.
with all the love in my heart, do you have any idea how difficult it would be to coordinate five separate recording day/times that work for all four people
I learned to sew on one of those old treadle Singers.
You only get a real sense of danger with an industrial sewing machine though.
I've always wondered: did the Roman senate choose Phonetician purple robes as a fuck you to the Carthaginians.
Not directly. Tyrrian purple was already a thing for royalty before the Romans were much of a concern. It was a very high value commodity across the Mediterranean basin, a market owned by the Phonecians and their descendants/surviving offshoot the Carthegineans.
yazoo city mentioned
Additional further reading: any and all Amanda Mull articles. Especially the latest one about the new Nike baseball jerseys.
Some makerspaces also have sewing machines
Posh aunt of mine lives in Munich, the worst city in germany. She's close friends with some elderly multi-millionaire who was also friends with a woman that ran a luxury fashion brand. The woman kept gifting him pants and sweaters from her latest collections but he really didn't like them. Would be rude to refuse the gift though so he gave my aunt the task to just donate it all to a local charity. Each sweater went for 300-400€ new and the pants were a similar price. She hesitated since she's not a comrade but in the end descided that she'll probably go to hell if she kept or flipped them online. So she donated all of them to the local catholic church organization, an entire SUV trunk full of luxury sweaters and pants. Munich now has some of the most dripped out homeless people you can get. At least they're now getting mistreated while looking good.
I'm actually disappointed that the guest is anonymous, since I am in need of a sewing sensei.
Since I'm like a thousand years old I remember when the ILGWU ran TV ads urging people to buy union made clothing. Many of them are available on YouTube.
Watching wttypp is getting be a part time job it seems.
Only four hours?
my mother wore clothes, my grandmother wore clothes, you could say it's a bit of a family tradition; ....... i wish could sit and listen to this instead of going to work
A word to the person who courageously edits all those episodes: my deepest sympathy and gratitude. I don't want to spell your first name wrongly, so I won't even try to use it. Can I ask for a favour? Even if it is adding to your work, could it be possible to add a little "ding" so I can watch the screen when you add your own comments, please? Yeah, I plead guilty, I'm not staring at the screen for the several hours of the podcast. But I don't want to miss your comments either! And leave them visible for more than 3 seconds, please. Finally, I want you to know that the episode about photography is on my top 3 list of favourite episodes. Really. Well, back to the show now!
Yeah, I think the solution was to find a better noise rather than to cut it entirely. A call of Duty hitmarker was odd and I assumed it was a drop used as a joke for some time before I realized what the purpose was.
4 hours?!? I wonder how much of it is spent off the rails :D
that's not off the rails, that's on a PLANE!
it’s funny, i was listening to the 9/11 episode on my way to work this morning who knew i’d be preparing for this episode along with the guest
The guest is Karl Lagerfeld. Yes, I was surprised too. //EDIT: Did not know they would lay into him when I wrote it 10 minutes in; stand by it. "Bad Gays" podcast recently made an episode about him, so it was fresh in my mind. Spoilers, he seemed sorta vapid.
4 hours.... She wasn't bluffing.
I know the guest, I saw a portrait of her in the MoMA
“A European 3XL is like a twink medium in the US.” Yeah, learned this one the hard way ordering some TF merch
Another 4 hour episode, we really are in a golden age.
Poor Devon
I hope they are paid by the second
Wait a minute, that sounds like my CIA handler
Turn to the left/FASHION/Turn to the right
Oh my god i can’t believe someone else’s mind went there lmao
Well, there goes my afternoon. (this comment made in a positive tone)
There goes my evening! A late night it's going to be!
Fashion was a solved technology once we invented the boilersuit
Love to [A LIGHTNING BOLT STRIKES FROM THE HEAVENS, KILLING ME INSTANTLY BEFORE I CAN MAKE ANY FURTHER COMMENT]
4 hours...
Guest is Anna Wintour, right?
Yay, podcast. And Liam.
Whoooooooooooooooooo Yay Liam
Fashion? Well there it is
No way. After all these years, no freaking way!!!!
First
Damn you.