Cicada Evening Bodice Progress // End of Day 1!
Today I finished the mock up (with 16 machine buttonholes down the center front to check that fit!) and decided on only a few tiny minor changes. I cut into the beautiful silk, nearly holding my breath all the while, and cut out the interlining as well. The main body of the bodice will be interlined in black cotton muslin, but I used an even lighter weight voile (left over from the peasant blouse) to interline the sleeve pieces. I then lined each piece up with it's twin and hand basted each piece together, with care as the taffeta wants to fray at the edges of course. I think I will hand overcast each seam as I go along sewing them? I would have cut this out with pinking shears, but mine are horribly old and practically corroded so that wasn't really an option this time!
I have been referencing an excellent blog called Historical Sewing https://historicalsewing.com/demystifying-victorian-bodice-construction since she's clearly got a ton of experience with bustle gowns. She actually overlocks her fashion fabrics and interlinings together, so I figured I would at least try a scrap. It actually works perfectly fine! The issue is not the overlocking itself, but the finished edge, as it is just too thick with all that thread and the "bulge" of it (so sorry) does show a bit on the smooth side. The hand basting of course did not cause this effect, so hand basting I decided! I may just leave the stiches in after the bodice is together too, I can't see why not to as the taffeta needs all the help it can get to not fray too far really.
I decided to use some 100% cotton thread in white for the basting, and used green cotton thread to sew the center front seams. I have black silk thread around too, but was reading up on the best option and read it may not be the best in the machine itself, but to use it for hems and sewing on the trims later. I also want to hand bead the trim too, but I may not have time for that one ha!
Thank you so much for your support, it is only because of your help that I have been able to take on this project. Tomorrow the pieces get sewn together properly, and I'll soon have to decide if I want buttons down the center front or hooks and eyes. I am considering hidden hooks and eyes with buttons sewn on the outside for the /look/ of buttons without the actually-having-to-hand-stitch-silk-buttonholes deal. I do have tiny black glass Victorian buttons you see...
Comments (12)
Just watched part one, you write! OK! My husband is also a writer, so any time you want advice, he's full of it, LOL
Even the mock up is gorgeous! You've mentioned that you studied at several locations , but I was wondering, was it Fashion Design? What was your specialty, and where did you see yourself in the industry? All you've said before was that you just like to have nice clothes that fit, and sewing is the way to get it, but if you studied Fashion, you must have other interests in the industry, no?
Thank you Ingrid! Yes I studied fashion design, I have a bachelor of science (what? why science and not art?...no one knows) in Apparel Design and Production from Colorado State. When I was a bright eyed 18 year old starting university I wanted to be an independent fashion designer with my own clothing line. As I began to understand the industry more and more, I was less and less inclined to work in it. Now I wouldn't even want my own clothing line, as it would be nearly impossible to do it sustainably or to my own idea of fair trade standards. I talk about my education and career path in more detail in my Side Husselen series over on the channel ❤
Love that green color so much! OMG, totally feel ya about cutting into expensive fabric. I had a film-themed wedding in 2004, for which my dress fabric was crazy-expensive. I saved every little scrap so I could do other projects with it, and every time I cut into, I hold my breath :)
Thank you Mel! I too am loving the green. I can't help but dream of the duchess satins from Silk Baron, but at that price per yard I wonder if I could even muster the courage to cut into them!!
Tantalizing.
I get breathtakingly nervous cutting every time I've cut into fabric, even if it's just old bedsheets. I can't imagine how stressful it would be to cut into such a beautiful silk!
The silk is stressful, but thinking about cutting into the antique silk lace I bought was even worse! Good thing I ended up deciding on using a different one for this particular bodice 😅
That colour is fabulous! Excited to see more ☺️
Thank you! The green is so good, I'm loving working with it!
In case you want to use the silk thread in your machine, I just wanted to say that I have been using Guetermann silk thread in my machine for years and it has never been a problem. I have a pretty basic Janome machine that was new when I got it 17ish years ago.
This is good to know indeed! It feels so light and nice I was afraid to try it in the machine. I have been using the silk Guetermann in black to sew on the trimmings and it sure is nice to hand sew with for sure!