Talkin' 'Bout Bus Stuff

If you want a power supply sooner, you could try Digikey. https://www.digikey.com/products/en/test-and-measurement/equipment-power-supplies-test-bench/633?k=Power+supply&k=&pkeyword=Power+supply&sv=0&sf=0&FV=-8%7C633&quantity=&ColumnSort=1000011&page=1&stock=1&pageSize=25

H-Day was a single day. 99percentinvisible did a podcast about it a few years ago.

I've got one of those ryobi caulk guns I've had for years. Mine is one of the old ones from back when ryobi tools were blue. I often have to caulk 16 foot joints and it is a life saver. Just set the feed rate and lay a smooth bead all the way across. No dips or bumps from having to pump the trigger, etc. I don't even have to go back and smooth them out. It really saves your hands especially when you use thicker adhesives and such.

No idea how easy this would be to do, but maybe in addition to a ramp you could have som ekind of hydraulic or air suspension on the back wheels that allows you to lower it whenever you want? Not sure how much less height you'd get from doing that but it would also give you a better angle to load cars at, no?

If you want some cheap air filtering in you shop(s), yous should consider making a box fan filter. You can do this easily by taping a 20x20 furnace filter onto a box fan. I've also seen some folks build fancy wood cabinets that the filter and box fan slide into. That could even be a project for your other channel! I have two in my house and they have dropped my cat allergies down so much I don’t even take medication anymore.

Is having all that weight from the rear wheels to the tail end a good idea. It might get a little scary on emergency stops.

I am not sure if this idea is even remotely viable, but you could fit an air suspension system on the rear axle so you can lower the „car area“ down when loading and unloading, reducing the angle you need to get up there.

The only concern I have is what is to keep a loose car from joining you in the living quarters? I think some sort of barrier like what the flatbed tow drivers call a 'Headache Bar' would be good.

I notice that there is a large overhang between the rear axle and rear bumper, and that the axle is fairly close to the back of the living quarters. As the front car will be over the axle and the second car well behind it, are you concerned that loading two cars, or one longer car, on the deck will create leverage that could cause the steer axle tires lose traction and affect steering?

It wouldn’t be a bad idea to have a built in retractable extension cord for the bus, then have some switches which decide if the engine block heater, battery charger, and outlets on the bus should run off of it. I’ve been thinking about adding a trickle charger and retractable extension cord to my pickup since I plug it in when it’s cold anyway.

Also, serious question. My 28+yo B&D cordless drill is getting on in years and replacement batteries are getting hard to find. I'm considering diving into a new cordless tool system. What has your experience with the Ryobi 18v One+ system been like?

Hoo boy, do I ever share your allergy troubles. I honestly hadn't thought about trying a resperator! Where was that when I was growing up with allegies? XD

I think a Tilt N Load style loading mechanism might be a slick way of doing the car hauler. Perhaps adapt the deck off a Tilt N Load trailer on top of the bus frame? Might present too steep of a ramp angle for loading lower cars though.

Besides bolting on an additional alternator, are you planning on doing much more mods on the drivetrain? I think it would be really interesting to see whatever gets done down there, or even just a tour because, even those of us like myself who have lots of experience on IC engines or small diesels, have never gotten anywhere near working on one of those monsters!

One step with the Wheego you could, and probably should do. is to unplug the BMS modules from the individual packs. It would at least make sure the cells are not being discharged any more.