Questions and Answers

Hahaha, quite the investigation... I’m not going to spoil the surprise so you can keep investigating, but I will tell you this: at first, I tried using my own voice, and it sounded terrible with my accent.🤣🤣

about a year ago or something like that, I tried to create a community on Discord and it did not go very well, because it is complicated to link Patreon with Discord, because the entry code expires, and also I do not have much time to be able to go into Discord, since it is a platform that I do not usually use. So I think I am going to try to open a group chat here on Patreon.

It’s been many years since I used LED, and I really wasn’t very good at soldering, so I don’t think it’s a good idea for me to teach you if I don’t fully master it either hahaha everyone should stick to what they know.

Well, I think it would depend a lot on the color of the horse, since if, as I always say, you look for reference images in real photographs, there are some horses where you can see the small hairs and in others, very little. So it depends a lot on what type of horse you choose and the colors. I, for example, would try to make a mix between the two techniques. That is, for example, if we are going to paint a brown horse with some white spots, which is usually something quite common, I would paint the whole horse brown with an airbrush. Then I would paint some gradients, for example, on the horse’s muzzle and around the eyes, which usually have different tones. And then the white spots I would do with the technique of painting brushstroke by brushstroke, hair by hair, with the brush. In that way, we would mix the two techniques and we would raise the level of the figure a lot by doing this hair-by-hair detail, but a large part of the figure, in reality, would be painted with an airbrush. But I am telling you that it depends a lot on the color of the horse. You could, actually yes you could do the whole, absolutely the whole horse, painting little hairs, but that is already a matter of how big the figure is and how much available time you also have.

To classify the videos into easy, medium and difficult level, I usually choose them by techniques. That is, at easy level, almost all the layers and shading are base coats. It is a simple process and, at most, there is some wash from time to time. If we move on to medium level, in these videos I usually already introduce textures, washes and some slightly more complex technique from time to time. And in the advanced level videos, I usually classify them because there are usually glazes continuously throughout the video and they are usually much longer painting processes in which many times I do not explain as detailed as in the easy level videos. That is, in the easy level videos I explain to you how to make the dilutions, how the stroke should be and so on. On the other hand, at advanced level I simply tell you something like, ¨and now we do a glaze¨, and I take for granted that you already know that this paint must be diluted, that you must spray at a certain distance and that it must be a subtle and thin layer. When you are able to practice, for example, on spoons and you are able to make glazes easily, that is, very thin layers, there are some videos in the basic gallery where I explain how to make glazes, then I think you will be qualified to move on to the advanced level videos. In addition, in these advanced level videos I also do more complicated techniques such as skins with many steps or lighting processes like OSL.

You have a tutorial that is perfect for what you are looking for. Some time ago I painted Storm from the X-Men and her suit has the effect that I think you are looking for, and that is for it to look silver as if it were a pearl, but not look like a metallic color, rather that depending on how the light hits it, it shines or does not shine. So check out that figure and you will see that effect, and let me know if it is what you are looking for.

Wow, what a good question it is so good that I will surely make a whole video explaining it. The truth is that printing cape is a headache, and that is why I almost never do it. I always try to avoid them. In the video I will give you some tricks on how to do it. And the thing is that you are right, we always have the doubt of whether the layer should be solid or hollow. And I think that depends a lot on each model. In some it is too thin and you have to make it solid and put a brutal amount of supports so that it does not fall. And in others it can be allowed to make it hollow. But be careful because it can be a resin trap and liquid resin may remain trapped inside in some fold of the cape. In the video I will show you some tricks on how I do it. And as for how to place it on the print bed, I always try to make it on the side that is flattest and therefore where I have the most surface area to place supports. Or in other cases, if there is a thicker piece, such as the shoulders or something like that, try to place that part at the bottom of the print. In the video I will show you how to do it. And as for making an FDM print look like resin, at least in my case, having a fairly old printer, what I usually do is print only the bases and if I need it to look good, because I leave some of them unprocessed, the work is usually layers of varnish or primer and with that it usually looks quite good.

I always try to place the supports where they cannot be seen, in the joints between pieces, although sometimes there is no choice but to put them in other areas, but in the video I will show you some tricks so that they are less noticeable, even so if they are visible they need a bit of sanding or a thick layer of primer.I will also give you my support size configuration in case you want to try it.

To choose the tutorials that I make in the videos, what I try to do is follow a series of requirements,, and that is that in each batch there is always a Wicked video, who are the collaborators. Then I try for there to always or almost always be a female character, and then I also try for there to always be a figure that can be painted entirely from beginning to end at an easy level. From there I already look for figures that seem interesting to me to paint because I want to explain a technique or I think they will really provide enough content for two or three videos. There are times when, first, I look for what I want to teach and then the figure. For example, in the recommendation you give me, I have been looking for a figure to paint male skin at an easy level for some time. Maybe what you recommend is perfect for that.

what great questions! my printers are 2 anycubic mono x that I no longer use and an m3 max, which is the one I always use, although it is already very very worn out, poor thing. and for fdm my old Artillery Sidewinder X2, a very basic printer but I use it to make bases.